H mid-mount sickle mower

Our Phone System is Down!

Please use the Contact us Form

We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!

ChasK

Member
I finally got the sickle mounted on the H and did some cutting with it last night. In heavier grass it plugs up. The grass gets caught up on the bar. My question is how do I adjust that? Do I need to get the guard points tipped down more or should they be level to tipped up a little? I don't have any experience with this type mower.
 
I have found that everything needs to be in good shape to
mow grass with a sickle bar mower. Your sickle needs to be
really sharp. Are your ledger plates worn out? Mine used to
plug on the outer end,an old timer told me to replace the last
section with a double one. That stopped the plugging,for the
most part. If the wear plates are worn and the sickle has too
much up and down slop that could be part of the problem.
 
I have used my 115 IH mower on the SMTA for the last several years and used various others prior to that. You did not say WHERE it was plugging. Usually this occurs at the end of the bar. You must have the special section with the extra 1/2 cutter on the end. Look on ebay, they are common. You should also have a manual and follow all the setup and adjustments...ebay again or maybe an IH dealer. This is important. Don't expect it to cut if it is out of adjustment. Think of scissors where the two sides do not mesh properly...they won't cut and the paper will wedge in them. Lastly, don't try to cut too fast or too early in the AM. A well adjusted sickle will cut fairly fast but slower is better. Cutting before noon around here will clog you up because there is dew deep in the hay and the wet makes for a poor result. Just some ideas, HTH.
 
Not that I am an expert by any stretch, but I have learned a couple of lessons from using my sickle bar mower.
To start with, what the others say is great advice. Additionally I found it a good idea to keep the angle of attack of the rock guards/bar level with the ground or slightly tipped up. Tipped down causes trouble and drags and digs the dirt instead of riding over it.
Also, have the outer part of the bar lead (further ahead) than the inside of the bar (by the tractor tire) by 2". That'll help avoid plugging up at the outer end of the bar and also reduce strain on frame of the mower.
Another thing comes to mind is the eveness of the ground. If the ground under the grass is rough and bumpy, the rock guards can dig into the high spots and block a knife or two with a clump of dirt which turns into a plugging of grass.
Regardless take your time, don't force anything and make adjustments as necessary. Good luck!
 
Is the mower a pitman arm or balanced head. On the pitman arm type there is a bolt to adjust the pitch of the cutter-bar, it should definitely be slightly pointed above level. If it's pointed level or down it collects too much grass & clogs. Also as previously mentioned the hold downs should be adjusted (few small taps w/ a hammer) so there is minimal vertical movement of the knife (less play as the knife moves back & forth, hence an easier/better cut). Also, make sure the knife sections & ledger plates are sharp and tight (& if not replace as needed). Make sure the guards are tight & have nice points, not blunt & are in the same plane/alignment (hold the cutter bar up by the far end & look down towards the tractor & adjust up/down w/ hammer as needed. All these little things add up!
 
When all this stuff previously mentioned had been completed open the engine up to wide open to cut. A fast moving cutter bar does a better job cutting.
 
sickle bar mowers do not like damp grass either if you tried cutting late evening sun needs to be well up
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top