Changing out clutch ect on 50 Cub

Im needing to change out the clutch on my 50 Cub Demonstrator. What parts should I get< And what is the procedure for doing the job?

do not forget the clutch pilot bushing.

Most kits have the pressure plate the throw out bearing and the disk but you still need the pilot bearing/bushing and some sort of clutch aliment tool.

If you have never split a cub, order a cub service manual (not the generic IT one) . will more than pay for itself. Be careful, front end is unwieldy. Manual will show how support. Best to take old clutch out first, so you see what you really need to order. Be safe.

Im a 47 Bill myself

not hard to do just a time thing. I would drain the hyd. fluid first and remove lines and began

Other than the clutch plate, how do I know what else needs changing??

Going from memory here...
1. Turn off fuel at sediment bowl. Disconnect positive cable from battery.

2. Remove fuel line at sediment bowl.

3. Have suitable stand ready for hood/fuel tank assembly. We had one at the family's garage made up of 1x6's with legs like a sawhorse, and a hollow centered rectangle to allow the tank to sit there without damaging the sediment bowl.

4. Disconnect headlights, and pull headlight wires back through hood grommets.

5. Remove the row of screws at the rear tank support.

6. Remove the screws on the trapezoid-shaped hood supports just below the headlights.

7. Remove the radiator cap [the hood generally won't clear the cap, in my experience]. Also remove the muffler, if your Cub doesn't have the underslung exhaust.

8. If the tank is nearly full, either drain the tank into a suitable gas can, or have an assistant help you lift the he heavy thing, and place hood/tank unit on the previously-mentioned stand.

9. Support the bottom of the bellhousing. At our garage, we had a screw-type jack stand that was perfect for that purpose.

9a. If it makes you feel better, place some blocks under the drawbar, so that the passing kid doesn't try to climb up on the drawbar while the Cub is parked there. Also, if it makes you feel more secure, lock the brake pedals together and lock the brakes...just in case.

10. Disconnect all wires and cables from starter. Disconnect starter pull rod. Disconnect choke pull rod.

11. If your Cub has hydraulic lift, disconnect the hydraulic manifold line at the engine.

12. At this point you should be ready to attach an engine lift chain to the engine, and connect the lift chain to a hoist.

13. Disconnect the wire harness from the ignition coil, or the grounding wire from the magneto.

14. You are now ready to start unbolting the bellhousing from the engine. When all the bolts are removed, don't forget that there are also dowel pins holding the engine and bellhousing in alignment. At this point it will be tempting to attempt to pry the engine and bellhousing apart, but unless it moves a little on its own, it's almost impossible to insert something between them. I have taken a tapered punch and tapped on the dowels in order to gain some "daylight" between the two, but it's unwise to be too heavy-handed with that hammer.

15. When the engine and bellhousing DO start to come apart, it's easier for me to roll the engine and chain hoist forward, away from the bellhousing [our chain hoist was on a roller track, suspended from a steel beam]. Release bearing and collar should remain attached to its linkage, and disc and pressure plate will remain with the engine. [This would be a good time to take some emery cloth to those dowel pins, so that reassembly will be a little easier. You don't have to go crazy here.]

16. At this point, unbolt the pressure plate, and the disc and pressure plate will come off the flywheel. With the help of an assistant, unbolt the flywheel and send it to the machine shop to have it resurfaced. This is a good time to examine the flywheel ring gear for excessive wear. If it's worn badly, have the shop replace it NOW. [You don't really want to split that tractor again before you HAVE to, do you?]

17. Now is the time to replace the clutch pilot bushing and the crankshaft rear main seal. No sense in overlooking them now, and having to split the tractor again shortly. Call it "cheap insurance."

18. Turning to the bellhousing area, replace the clutch release bearing. [NO it's NOT a "throwout" bearing, because it doesn't "throw" ANYTHING out.]

19. When you get the flywheel back from being machined, reinstall the flywheel. Torque to specifications, 45-50 lb/ft. Using a clutch alignment tool or a stub shaft, line up the clutch disc and install the new pressure plate. Torque to specs, 20lb/ft.

20. As you begin to move the engine back towards the bellhousing, make sure the long transmission input shaft begins to enter the clutch hub. If the shaft doesn't perfectly align with the clutch hub, shift the PTO into gear, and SLOWLY and GENTLY turn the PTO pulley until the shaft and hub align.

21. From here, continue to slide the engine and bellhousing together until they meet. Bolt the engine to the bellhousing.

22. From this point, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Don't forget to top off the hydraulic oil, which has drained out while the manifold line was disconnected from the engine. Don't forget to turn the fuel back on at the sediment bowl, either. And don't forget to lube the release bearing.

This is all from memory...so if I've left out any steps, I'm sure others will chime in and tell you.

Hope this is helpful.

have someone look at pressure plate and throw out bearing. change the clutch pilot bushing regardless.

Before you do anything, wedge the front axle. If you don't, the engine will fall over to the side when you disconnect it from the bell housing.
Before ordering parts, check what you have and what you need. The clutch parts are expensive.

If you have an engine chain and a hoist on that engine, and do it right, it's not going anywhere but where you put it. The thing is, the chain has to be hooked correctly to the engine.

If you leave the chain LOOSE, or if you hook it up incorrectly, it will do EXACTLY what you say.