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M&W hand clutch

M

mkirsch

Well-known Member
We were fiddling with the M&W hand clutch on my Super M yesterday.

I could not get the adjustment nut to move, period. It would not budge with a hammer and chisel.

Is there a wrench that fits it?
 

Did you pry out the lock tab?

Nut should turn easy if the tab is out and the clutch is open.

You won't turn it if the clutch is closed.
 
Lock tab wasn't folded down.

Tried it with lever ahead, and back.

It's just plain SOLID. You can tell when you're tapping on it that it's not going anywhere.

The clutch does work now. Seems trying to move the nut must've rattled the disks and steels in the clutch pack loose. Lever snaps back and forth now, and the tractor stops with just a tiny tap on the brakes.
 

Trying to add pics
mvphoto19485.jpg


mvphoto19486.jpg
 
It should move easily once the lock tab is moved.A
light tap and a pair pliars will easily turn the
nut.Never heard of a special wrench/spanner for
one.Make one.Take a socket of correct size and grind
4 'pins' into it to fit the nut.There is nothing to
bind up...Is there rust?Is the nut/shaft 'galled'?If
you ruin the nut,I may have an extra one.In fact,I
have an almost comlete clutch for an M on the shelf
 
Mine moved easy.I would think yours may be bottomed out with no adjustment left.Or the tab is catching.
 
Nope, no tabs catching. I took a screwdriver and pushed them all back.

The cover was loose, and the lever was wobbling.

Between banging on the nut, bending the hold-down clips to hold the cover on tight, and shimming up the lever, the clutch now works!

Before, I could pull it with a 3-bottom plow sunk in sod, and it would keep going. Now it stops with a tap on the brakes.

It should "pop" in and out, right?
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:04 07/30/13) Nope, no tabs catching. I took a screwdriver and pushed them all back.

The cover was loose, and the lever was wobbling.

Between banging on the nut, bending the hold-down clips to hold the cover on tight, and shimming up the lever, the clutch now works!

Before, I could pull it with a 3-bottom plow sunk in sod, and it would keep going. Now it stops with a tap on the brakes.

It should "pop" in and out, right?
Click to expand...

The cover is supposed to float a bit and not be tight on the shaft end.

Yes it should pop out and the tractor should stop.

You still need to pull the clutch pack, clean and inspect, as something is not right in there.
 
Sounds like your disc's are burnt up.Someone told me that a guy out west makes new ones on a CNC.I don't have a name.My M would slip with a 10' harrow and with a 1/4 of a turn the front end would come off the ground so a little adjustment goes a long way.
 
I've got the manual from Steiners. It really doesn't tell you much.

About the only way it would be useful is if I were installing one in a Farmall M.

The parts diagrams have no parts lists.
 
(quoted from post at 17:15:02 07/30/13) I've got the manual from Steiners. It really doesn't tell you much.

About the only way it would be useful is if I were installing one in a Farmall M.

The parts diagrams have no parts lists.
Click to expand...

Mine has parts drawings for h, super h, m, super m, w series in the back

I might have a super manual somewhere.

The clutch pack itself is the same for an m or a super.

Not much inside there, just a cam clutch

You probably need the outer bearing, oil seals, and a good cleaning and lube job and will work fine.

I put up a pic of the clutch pack, it just slides out of there.
 
Yes, it has DRAWINGS, but no parts lists.

The rest of the manual only covers the regular M. Cool to read but the only thing that applies to my setup is the adjustment, which I can't change because the nut won't move.
 
(quoted from post at 09:54:28 08/01/13) Yes, it has DRAWINGS, but no parts lists.

The rest of the manual only covers the regular M. Cool to read but the only thing that applies to my setup is the adjustment, which I can't change because the nut won't move.
Click to expand...

Yours must be missing a page, mine has the parts list right before the drawings.

All the internals, cam lock, lever, plates, etc should be the same as a regular M.

How much thread is showing past the nut????
 
(quoted from post at 14:34:33 08/01/13) Quite a bit of thread is showing past the nut, something like 3/8" or so.
Click to expand...

Nut is bottomed out then, time for a rebuild if you can get that nut off.

Still may be best to pull the pack out to work on it, you may need a new seal on the pinion and behind the brake drum, there are also 2 bearings in the cam that need checked and greased.

Bearings, nut, locks, disks are all available. I have some parts in stock.
 
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