1456 blowing fuses

MaverickM23 · Jul 22, 2013

Just had the 1456 blow the fuse for the lights
again. It has done this several times now. The
tractor has been completely rewired with a new
alternator, batteries, switches and gauges. What
is strange is that when the light switch is on the
first position it will get red hot and then start
to smoke until it is turned to the second position
is that because it is the dimming one? Wasn"t sure
what could be causing it to blow fuses all the
time. It seems to happen if the tractor is stopped
or moves suddenly. Any ideas?

todd hamilton · Jul 22, 2013

If you have added extra lights or high performance lights it is too much current for that pitiful switch ih used. Split the lamp load out using a couple of extra circuits and switches.

pete 23 · Jul 22, 2013

If it blows the element in the fuse you have a intermittent short some place. If it melts the ends of the fuse loose, gets hot, you have an over load or most likely a poor fuse holder causing resistance. Fuse must stay cool. If you mean the dimmer resistor is getting red hot I suspect you have too much load for that set up and splitting them off using relays is the answer. The switchs are fine when connections are in good condition and not overloaded with extra lights. It is the connectors that are on the small side for that many lights and have to be in very good condition. I use relays when adding extra lights or higher amp drawing lights.

mkirsch · Jul 23, 2013

Blowing fuses means one of two things:

1. Dead short somewhere.
2. Too many lights.

How many lights do you have on the tractor? The fuse and switch are designed for four fender lights and one rear light, and then only 35 Watt lights.

If you've got more than the five stock lights, you need to power them some other way.

MaverickM23 · Jul 23, 2013

It has four lights in the front and two in the rear, so my guess is that it is over loading it because the fuse holder gets hot when it blows. I guess I should take the two rear lights off of it and use a separate switch for them, or get led lites but they are so expensive.

pete 23 · Jul 23, 2013

Dead shorts blow fuses instantly. A corroded or overloaded fuse holder will get hot and melt fuse ends, not blowing the element itself. Fuse must not get hot to work.

Owen Aaland · Jul 23, 2013

Five lights is usually pretty much the limit for the fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse. With six lights you usually have problems. Changing to a 25 or 30 amp fuse usually just results in melted fuses.

One of the mechanics I used to work with would add a second fuse holder behind the dash wired in parallel with the one in the dash panel. My preferred method is to add a relay with a 30 amp breaker and use the switch and original fuse to control the relay.

MaverickM23 · Jul 23, 2013

So how would you wire up the relay? Take the leads
from the switch that normally go to the lights
through the relay? I haven't done much stuff with
relays as far as wiring goes.

Owen Aaland · Jul 23, 2013

Run a wire from the battery cable connection at the starter to a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker. From the circuit breaker go to the common load terminal on the relay. From the normally open terminal run a wire to the lights. That is the power circuit. For the control circuit use the wire that is on the switch that is currently going to the lights you want to control and connect it to one of the relay control terminals. Connect the other control terminal to ground.

When you turn on the lights power will flow through the control circuit in the relay to ground which will cause the relay will close the normally open contacts. Power will then flow from the starter through the circuit breaker, through the relay, and on to the lights.

1456 blowing fuses

MaverickM23

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todd hamilton

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pete 23

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mkirsch

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MaverickM23

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pete 23

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Owen Aaland

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MaverickM23

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Owen Aaland

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