(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

working on a Farmall 340

K

Kirk Affeldt

Member
I just bought a Farmall 340, serial number 7362-S. The tractor has a standard drawbar, decent tires, and good sheet metal. The tractor has not run in a few years and the engine is not stuck from what I can tell. I tried to turn the fan blade and had it moving a little, very little. I couldn't find any place where stuff could get into the motor. I pulled the dipstick and the oil level was up to the full line and it looked like oil.

I don't know about the TA or the clutch. I could move the TA lever back and forth but I believe it is stuck in direct drive. The clutch pedal activated the clutch-I could easily feel that by depressing the clutch in and out/up and down. The right brake seems to function well but the left one seems stuck.

I didn't see or find any leaks out of any place-gasket, pto, hose, fittings, etc... except from the sediment bowl area. The sheet metal, fenders, emblems, etc...are all there and in good shape-no dings, dents, welds, etc...I couldn't detect any cracks in the manifold.

My goal is to get this tractor running again without sticking a pocketful of money in it. If more than a pocketful of money is needed, I will sell it for salvage/parts.

It was a good runner before it sat. The back story is the farmer passed away and the family just left everything. Now they are ready to sell off the tractors and implements.

My questions of the forum: What are some tips and tricks to get this up and running? I will have to get a battery and do some work with the electrical to get it to fire. What can you tell me about the 340? Is it worth the time and effort?

Thank you for your thoughts and opinions.
a122299.jpg

a122300.jpg

a122301.jpg

a122302.jpg
 
I don't recall seeing many 340's. Interesting with the straddle mount, yet tricycle chassis. Looks to be a derivative of the Super C. Right, or what is it's lineage? What it the hand lever to the left of the clutch housing, by the clutch pedal? Looks like it has hydraulics but no rockshaft?
 
The 340 is the illicit love child of a Super C and a 460. It has an engine and front end heavily derived from the Super C, bolted to the rear end of a 460.

Fast hitch (rockshaft) was common, but optional.

Lever on the left side is the TA.

As far as preparing for a first start, you can go as simple as check the oil, add gas, hook up a battery, and press the button.

It wouldn't hurt to roll the engine through an entire revolution or two with a wrench on the front pulley bolt.

Once you do that, hook up a battery, pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap, hold the tip near the engine block, and crank it over a couple times. See if you get a spark. If not you probably need to file and reset the points.

You can pull the carburetor and clean it, or even rebuild it if you so choose.

Check the gas tank for varnish and excessive crud. Use an external gas tank of some sort if it's bad.
 
(quoted from post at 21:27:11 07/18/13) I just bought a Farmall 340, serial number 7362-S which means you have a 1962 vintage with the suffix S = Torque amplifier attachment.

Congratulations!! on a great find. Now don't be color-blind and get that John Deere in the background also! Pocketful of money...put large denomination bills in all your pockets...tires, tubes, draining fluid if it has it; check the valve stem area for corrosive fluid leaks.

Ya gots' a wonderful little tractor. Headlights, including a rear light; fenders; complete ribbed white sheet metal; and id trim; a hydraulic valve cover below the dash, looks complete. My preference is for the fast-hitch, but a great find and you provided us with super pictures...some might say 'supper pictures'.

Drain the gas system and add enough to get it running. I would pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let is soak a few days. Then, jack up a rear wheel and with the tractor in fifth gear, turn that wheel. This may prevent a piston ring from breaking. A few days patience is worth it. 'Old" suggests automatic transmission fluid as that works also.

Clean and gap the plugs and points and check their wires. Peek under the sheet metal for any birds nests which could burn your tractor up...careful...check for hornets nests also!

Also check the hydraulic system fluid level. Just under the front end of the left running board, look for a bolt or machine screw. Turn out same and you should add fluid if nothing runs out.

Once you have had it running change the oil, hydraulic fluid and filter - the football-shaped plate ahead of the brake pedals. You probably know all this stuff already. Check the coolant level also.

Repost with your results...[b:a2de686f6e]don't you dare scrap it or sell parts[/b:a2de686f6e]
Click to expand...
 
John

I have no idea what the "20" is for. The bluish stuff is fuel leaked out of the top of the sediment bowl or the threads between the tank and sediment bowl.
 
I just bought a 340 (Utility) a couple weeks ago. It wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the fuel tank and pull off the whole sediment bowl/ fuel valve assembly and flush the tank.. I think because of the way the tank funnels down to the low spot where the valve is located, a LOT of crud and corruption collects there... (Don't ask how I know, but the carb probably needed to be torn down and cleaned anyway....)
There's a great video on uTube showing how to adjust the T/A on the 340, might be worth checking out. A functioning T/A on the 340 is a HUGE asset. Mine isn't exactly overwhelmed with power in road gear, and I use the T/A going to and from my house when mowing.( From my shop to my house is about 3 miles with BIG long hill on the way)
Could I ask a favor??
I'd like to have the measurements for the hole where the exhaust comes through the hood. Mine has a low mounted exhaust and I want to change to a vertical one, and I would prefer to get it right the first time that I attack the sheet metal with a hole saw!
Thanks ahead of time.... Ed
 
Kirk
Nice find!

Where did you find it and if you don't mind my asking, what did it set you back? I ask as I have located one for 850.00 but I haven't seen its condition yet
Tracy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Explain the TA on a Farmall to me
Replies
11
Views
950
Mike(NEOhio)
M
B
Farmall 340 Paint Color
Replies
4
Views
462
Whiskey Bent
W
B
340 Farmall Rear Wheel Move
Replies
10
Views
427
caterpillar guy
C
M
Replaced torque amplifier on 340 Farmall
Replies
5
Views
529
used red MN
U
B
Farmall 340 Engine
Replies
4
Views
394
gene bender
G
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top