WD9 crusted pistons

So I have a WD9 that has frozen pistons in it, I have had transmission oil in all the cylinders for a few years, and have it finally in my shop to start working on. Anyone have any ideas on how I can sanely get the pistons out of this beast?

Thanks,

Wheaty

Try using a large block of hard wood on top of the piston and driving it down through.

acetone 50/50 mix with the ATF works better than ATF alone. A propane torch apllied to pistons to heat and let cooled with a shot of WD40, PB blaster or a squirt of ATF/Acetone at side of cylinder walls /top edge of cooling piston a couple heat and cooling cycles. Put engine on stand and turn upside down, do the heat and lube as cooled drill from bottom. Then the wood block and light to heavier taps with a large (Harley sized) hammer. Old machinist had some friends doing antique restoring- they didn"t have any replacement pistons available for 1920s/1930s engines so were taking a litle extra time to save as much as possible- a slightly to severely but mostly there damaged piston could be used in a mold form to make a sand mold to cast a new piston while broken pieces were difficult to measure and use. He was mentor for the 1937 Harley UL restore/rebuild I did- funny thing was the local Harley dealer had the valve guides in stock. Use some sandpaper, emory on tops, side of cylinder to remove as much crud as possible- a thump upward might move 1/8 inch up when can"t move down- but that is enough to get some more lube into the new opening crack and then 1/8 inch down thump, 1/4 inch up thump, 1/2 inch down thump-- and so on until piston is freed. Watch for top of cylinder ridge- might want to ridge ream and get piston out the top since cylinder taper tends to be a bit larger toward top. Have fun, save the head. RN

Do you have a torch you can blow them out with?

You didnt say are the cycl walls rusted if they are or were those pistons will not come out without pressing them when they are rusted fast you can soak till the cows come home and they wont free up

Clean the rust where he pistons meet the sleeve with a pick or something else to get the fluid in there.

First of all I would clean the cylinder walls above the pistons, use a wire wheel to clean up the rust and then use a cylinder hone and hone the cylinders some so that they are smooth. The pistons have to come out the top of the engine, so unless you plan on taking the engine out of the tractor, you will have to crawl underneath. Use a long piece of solid shaft and a big hammer and drive the piston out the top.

If you are taking the engine out, then the best way would be to strip it down to just the block, remove the crankshaft and then place the block upside down in a press. Lay a semicircle piece of steel in the big end of the rod and then press against it.

With either of these methods, the sleeve is likely to come out with the piston, it just depends on how tight the piston is stuck. Once removed, the piston can be pressed out of the sleeve. If you are not saving the sleeves, just cut them off the piston.

I am with Gene on this one! put hydraulic jack under tractor, square oak dowl up to piston bottom and Jack! Push the sleeve out with the piston. Install new sleeve. Split old sleeve and save old piston and rod install new rings. oldiron29

Any chance you can post a picture of what you are working with? WE can better assist seeing what you are dealing with. Take the head off. Clean out what ever is in the cylinders and post a picture of a couple of the cylinders.

we can go from there.

I use some ATF put in cylinders and then soak up some old rags in fluid. Light on fire and let burn. Might want to get it outside first. Flame will get pretty high. Be safe I remove the fuel tank and any flammable stuff. I did it 6 times all but once pistons came out without force. Clean sleeves on top first.

You dont want to push on the rod it could be damaged pushing there instead push on the piston where the wrist pin is that way you wont damage the rod.

You cant remove the pistons down some will not clear the block and you would need the engne out and crank removed also.

(quoted from post at 21:10:19 07/17/13) You cant remove the pistons down some will not clear the block and you would need the engne out and crank removed also.

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With the engine and crank out you can get all 4 out. BTDT on my first parts engine.

First of, thanks for all of the input, I really do appreciate it !!

I do have the head off, that was step one for me to see what was going on. It seems as though the level in cylinders 3 and 4 have dropped, need to get the oil pan of next to verify. So those might not be so bad.

The cylinder walls on 1 and 2 are pretty nasty, pushing the pistons out the top, makes sense as for cylinder wall wear, need to take a look at ring ridge. I'll spend some time on cleaning them up, so I can see better. I never thought f pushing up from the bottom, that's a heck of an idea. I'm pretty sure that the tractor won't go anywhere as it has just a wee bit of weight to it. Just hope there is enough of a flat spot on the bottom of the piston to press on, that is out of the way of the rods.

I don't have hardly anything in this tractor, but am not for sure as to what it's going to cost to fix it up. I would like to try and salvage as much as I can, I havn't been able to find too many places that migh have parts for this thing. I thought I saw somewhere where you could still get a rebuild kit for this at NAPA?? It's more or less a big toy for me

Were the heads pretty bad about cracking on these indirect start diesels? I need to have it looked at.

A little more history on this:

I think the block is ok, the Antifreeze looked pretty good when I drained it, but there was ALOT of water in the oil pan when I drained it. The radiator was full, and there didn't seem to be any oily film in it. Pretty sure that it was rain water, the oil was black as coal when I drained it. I'm guessing that it had just sat outside for too long. The water jackets look great, no rust or scale in them.

Thanks again for all the input guys. I REALLY APPRECIATE IT

Wheaty