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Engine Stuck

M

Mark58

New User
I have a super m with all the pistons stuck.Have been soaking with all different products for some time and can"t get anything past the rings.I have the front sleeve and piston out now need to remove the rear next and can"t get it to budge at all.
 
Pour some kerosene or diesel fuel on top of the piston and set it on fire. Make sure you don't do this near any building and you remove anything flammable. Only do one piston at a time and remove the rod cap & use a piece of oak and a big hammer to see if the piston will move after heating it. Hal
 
Have been using oak and a big hammer and even hyd jack that is how the front sleeve and piston finally came out.I can't even get the rod caps off the center 2 until i get the back one out.I was wondering about trying to heat them up with a torch and see if that will help.
 
Take a floor jack and a length of pipe. If you can turn the crank out of the way a two inch piece of conduit will go right up there put a socket on the bottom of the sleeve and start slowly jacking. It will pop free and scare the devil out of you thinking you cracked something. I don't recall what size socket I used but it perfectly fit the sleeve and didn't touch the block. Obviously it was 3 and something.
 
Sflem, with a grin I would remind you thet the dry sleeves are tough to remove even with the piston out. with it in the hole, the pressure of the rust smashes the sleeve into the existing block bore to an extreme. Jim
 
Like someone else already mentioned, the pistons and sleeves are junk anyhow, so wrecking those pistons is not a problem.

Start by drilling a series of holes through the top of the pistons, and then insert a hacksaw blade down through one of the holes and do your best to cut through the piston skirt right up to the sleeve. Might have to do that in a couple of different places. Eventually you will be able to remove the chunks.
 
(quoted from post at 12:50:47 06/20/13) Sflem, with a grin I would remind you thet the dry sleeves are tough to remove even with the piston out. with it in the hole, the pressure of the rust smashes the sleeve into the existing block bore to an extreme. Jim
Click to expand...

True!
 
I don't know about a Super M but when I took them out of a Cockshutt 30, this is what I made to get them out. They came out easy. The bottom of the sleeve has to stick down below the block a little for it to work. The rectangular tube slips up over the rod and pushes on the sleeve. It's made from 2" square tubing, and 3/4" threaded rod. Straddles the engine and just keep tightening the nuts to force the sleeve out You have to put spacers between the top of the block and the 2" square tube that sits on the top. The rectangular tube is 2" X whatever it takes to go over the rod. Pieces welded to the rectangular tube are a slip fit over the bottom square tube to keep it in place while you tighten the nuts. Worked great for me.
id12072.jpg

id12071.jpg
 
I'm thinking that some of you all are forgetting that the Super M engine is a dry sleeve engine and those pistons and sleeves will not come out that easy when they are stuck.

As said by a few you will need to distroy the pistons to get them out. I have taken the torch and cut the connecting rods off to get the crank out and then sticking the engine block in the press bottom side up and press the sleeves out.

Replacement connecting rods are easy to come by.
Let us know how you procede.
 
I had a SH with 2 pistons stuck. I soaked for 2-3 weeks. Then I built fire in the cylinders and let it burn out; this I believe helped some because I saw corrosion release. Then I chained a 4" x 1/4 piece of square tubing under the tractor and hanging from the side rails. The I placed a 8 ton jack under the rod that had been disconnected from crank and set it on tubing. I cut a piece of 5/4" oak to the radius of the rod and pushed the piston and sleeve out of engine. this was ok because I went back with new sleeves and pistons from this site.
Took several attempts because the oak block would kick out but it worked. All rods went back and I am using the tractor every week now.
 
Remove the engine from the tractor. Turn the block upside down, remove ALL of the main bearing caps, then you can more or less lift the crank up just enough to allow it to rotate 180°, and then you can access the other 2 rod caps.
 
> I was wondering about trying to heat them up
> with a torch and see if that will help.

I"d go the other direction and fill the cylinders with liquid nitrogen.
 
another vote for setting it on fire.
even a couple of times.
I also use a jack and wood block to put
upward pressure on a crank throw/rod end going 'up'
(gently)
when pounding on a piston going 'down'
remember to keep moving the fire and jack around.
see one piston twitch in it's bore, move to another.
even if one is free, the others are still stuck.patience
fire has worked on every tough one except one for me.
That one, after getting the rod cap nuts off with a
modified wrench and a lot of work(socket wouldn't go where they were)
I fitted a BIG chisel carefully up to sit on the piston bottom,
trying not to damage the rod little end and beat the piston and sleeve out together,
then torched off the sleeve to save the rod

edit: just to add on the fire, was trying to free up a Ford once,
pounding to no avail. set all 4 holes on fire, jacked a rod end up until the front of the tractor just raising. 20 minutes later I heard it settle to the ground. free!
 
Got all the pistons out today going to pull the sleeve's next and start ordering some parts.Just wanting to say thanks to everyone for all the help.
 
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