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Anti-Freeze in Oil

W

WI-Ed

Member
I was changing oil on my Farmall A. When I pulled the drain plug I was sure I saw a flash of anti-freeze. Is that a sign that I need a head gasket?
 
Definitely sounds like a gasket issue. I'd start there first. Make sure you you check the head for straightness. Also...remember you need to retorque the head gasket after you run it a bit
 
AS usual Gene and I agree. Use a small bottle of Barsleak. Follow the directions. Work it so it gets up to temp and circulates through the whole block. You should be fine. Small leak at the o-ring or small seep in the headgasket, Barsleak will correct it. Important part is to have it up to temp, pour in the Barsleak, and then run it for awhile.

Used many times with excellent results.
 
I also have an A that's leaking coolant into the oil at the sleeve seal. I have been hesitant to use Barsleak because mine is the "percolator" type with no water pump. Will Barsleak work in a non-water pump system?
 
Could be a head gasket but not necessarily.
Before any disassembly you should pull the pan and maybe valve cover, pressurize the cooling system and check for signs
of the leak. Could be from the bottom sleeve seals as mentioned.
If you remove the head first you have no way to test the system and may replace the gasket and still have the problem.
As mentioned, bars leak may plug up a small leak.
good luck with it
Dennis
 
BArs leak works fine in a thermosyphon system. However, it does require that you get it up to temp BEFORE you put it in, then run it a bit afterwards.

I have used it on an A, a BN, an F20, F30, and a REgular, all with great success.

Warm it up, dump it in, then run it up to temp for at least 30-60 mins. problem solved.
 
Its going to go to the bottom of the radiator and stop in the lower outlet and then settle at the drain and thats where you will find it.
 
Well Gene, you and I definately agree more than we disagree, but this time, I respectfully disagree with you. I have used it, as indicated, and the bottom of my rad is NOT plugged or gummed up. The important part is to start when the cooling system is already hot and circulating. And keep it that way for at least 30-60 mins afterwards.

However, as I said, you and I agree many more times than we disagree.
 

This happened to one of my IH-140's a few years ago. I pulled the head and it was obviously a head gasket problem. It was pretty easy to replace and no problems since.
 
Hey, if it's a head gasket, then I 100% agree, replace it. If it is one of the O'rings, not so much, as that is a crank out, pistons out, do it right. I can be done, "in frame", but it would have to be the whole year's crop on the line for me to do that. However, that is what these are designed for, "in frame" replacement of pistons and sleeves.

anyway, I look at it this way. $6.95 for a small bottle of Bar's leak. If the issue is resolved, so much the better. So, you'll burn an hour's worth of gas and $6.95 on the Bar's leak, and 1 hour of time. compare that to the alternatives.
 
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