Super W6 Ring Replacement

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hi all,
I've just finished getting a valve job done on our super W6 and am getting ready to put the thing back together. I had to drop the pan off for other things while I was at it. If I'm this far into the engine, should I replace the rings (and possibly roll in another standard size set of rod bearings) while I'm at it? I don't really want to go through all the trouble of honing the sleeveds. Would it be a stupid idea to re-ring it without getting it honed first?
Thanks!
 
I doubt you will get the pistons out without using a ridge reamer. If you use a ridge reamer you might as well use a hone.
 
If you can feel any ridge where the top ring stops in its upward travel the next step is to measure the taper. (difference between the least worn area at the bottom of the sleeve, and the deepest part of that groove at the top.) Measuring it requires telescopic bore gauges, or dial/digital cylinder bore tools. If the ridge is able to be felt, it will need to be reamed out of the top of the bore to get the pistons out. The rings will collapse as far as they can into the ring grooves, but they are often limited by carbon buildup under the ring in the groove that prevents them from compressing far enough. Things will break.
New rings will hit the top under side of the ridge (if not removed) and make broken rings a reality.
So, if a detectable ridge, and intent to do it once, buy a sleeve and piston kit and do it correctly At about 1000 for all and fluids,
If no ridge, and it was not using excessive oil, just do the top end.
By the way unless you mic the rod journals you will not know what size bearings to put in it. Jim
 

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