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BN stuck engine/oil pump removal

R

Royse

Well-known Member
I am taking apart a VERY stuck BN engine.
Goal is to save the block to replace the cracked one on my running BN.
I have this engine on an engine stand where the cylinders have been
soaking in ATF/Acetone mix for several months.
Took the head and oil pan off today. Cylinders are in really rough shape.
Rust on the sides of the cylinder walls over 1/8 inch thick.
Cylinders were about 3 inches full of ATF still. Not one drop has
managed to leak by the pistons/rings into the oil pan.
I loosened the main caps and was going to remove the oil pump
but I can't get it to budge. I've got the two through the block
bolts out, but it won't wiggle away from the block or turn.
I tried taping it with a hammer, etc. No movement at all.
Now that I have the bottom open, it's soaking upside down in
penetrating oil.
Any tips on getting the pump out without breaking it?
Or other tips in general on an engine this stuck?
It's a donor, but I can't see destroying it.
 
Don't know about your oil pump but I have removed badly stuck pistons by drilling a ring of holes around the edges of the piston as close together as possible then take a piece of wood and a sledge hammer to drive it out. It is a lot of work but I saved the block which was all I wanted.
 
I had the same problem with my Super "A" last
year. I removed the bottom cover on the oil pump
and made a plate with 4 holes to bolt onto it. I
drilled a hole in the middle of the plate big
enough to get the threads of a slide hammer
through. I put a nut inside to hold it. Then
bolted the plate on. Using longer bolts, draw up
the bolts so they go all the way though , but
allow the slide hammer to wobble a little. A few
slams and it popped right out! A little honing
with a ball/brush hone and it slid in and out
easily....
 
Get the oil pump out with a slide hammer set-up. Then remove the crank, keeping tract of the rod & main caps so they don't get mixed up. Then you can drive the pistons and sleeves out together. Make sure you get new o-ring seals for the sleeves & clean the block good where they go in.
 
Dalex, thanks for the slide hammer idea, that is definitely do-able.
I have everything I need here to fab it up. Including the slide hammer.
I'll keep it soaking until I get it made and that will probably work!
 
Thanks Teddy, I've got all the caps marked. SOP for me.
Block and crank will end up at the machine shop anyway.
I trust his measurements more than my own, plus he has an
oven big enough for the block.
Kind of a shame that I have to do this at all.
My BN runs very well, but the block has been cracked and welded
horizontally from front to rear on the left side. Twice. Two different
places. And it's seeping antifreeze out of one of them.
No antifreeze in the oil or oil in the antifreeze, just leaking.
I salvaged the block out a parts tractor, so it was free except my labor.
 
All good tips and I'm sure you will get the pump out.
Since the gear on the pump shaft (driven by the camshaft) is a helical gear, either the pump or the camshaft (or both) have to be able to rotate slightly while pulling the pump out. So make sure either can rotate; otherwise you will mess up the gears :-(
HTH, Hendrik
 
Remove the connecting rod cap and use a piece of 2 X 2 oak and big hammer and see if the wet sleeve will move by placing the oak against the connecting rod and hit the other end of the oak. You can use an acetylene torch to heat the sleeve to free the piston once its out of the engine. You need to remove all the pistons and connecting rods then you can rotate the camshaft to free the oil pump. Hal
PS: I did this on a Farmall A back in 1975. It was in sad shape when I bought it for $100.00 and that included the 16-inch moldboard plow.
a117979.jpg
 
Hendirk, thanks. I know what you're saying about it needing to turn.
I've got them soaking at the moment.
I'll see if I can cause some movement to make sure they're free.
 
Thanks El Toro.
I understand what you're saying about pounding them out.
I've actually had to do that a few times.
The oil pump is kind of in the way, but it wouldn't be so much so
if I took it apart so the pickup tube was not there.
 
Cowman, my torch and I are already best of friends.
I'm not sure how I ever got along without them!
What are you suggesting I heat/cut in this case?
When I get that far, I was thinking I may have to heat the sleeves.
I'd like to clean/sand/wire brush the outer edge before I try to
drive them out though, even if I have to heat them afterwards.
Just another attempt at the goal of saving the block.
If it all comes apart well, I may rebuild this one, swap it in and
offer to sell the other one as a running engine. But that's a far cry
from where I am right now and the goal IS to save the block.
Thanks for your help!
 
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