IHC B-275

jgc · May 27, 2013

A friend of mine got a B-275 gas tractor with a hobby farm he bought.
He"d like me to give it a check-over and change the engine oil, check the coolant, check the hydraulic fluid, etc.

I"m not familiar with this tractor.
Any things that must be checked, any chronic problems, anything best left alone?

All advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
JGC

jgc · May 27, 2013

Correction - it is diesel.

The owner would like to know:
- what is the tipping point of the tractor,
- how to change the oil
- it seems to take a long time for the heater coil to warm up.
- tips on attaching and detaching implements would be nice.

Regards,
JGC

JimB2 · May 27, 2013

Hi, made in the UK. The gas version was rare in our area, they were all Diesels. Pretty reliable and tough tractor. Problems were Lucas electric system and the brakes were not the greatest requiring annual maintenance.
I believe the gas version the carbs are difficult to find parts for. Early versions were like a B-250 with a hydraulic control at the front of the seat and later versions had 3pt and draft control by right side of the seat and were similar to B-414 but just about 5 HP less. New models were 276, some models may have been assembled in the USA which had Delco electric systems and may had different gas engines.

JimB

JimB2 · May 27, 2013

Hi, I have an Operators manual for a B-414, the only major difference was B-275 had a BD-144 engine and B-414 had a BD-154 and B-414 had larger rear tires.

To lift the hood, remove the air cleaner top, then there should be a lever on the bottom of each side of the hood by the fuel tank, flip the levers and the hood should tip forward. On top of the valve cover is a crankcase breather cap, this cap is removed by a twist to unlock and this is where the new oil is poured into the crankcase. The crankcase is drained by the plug on the bottom.
Becareful changing the oil filter as there are about 3 different O-rings that comes with the oil filter and you have to select the correct replacement and you have to lie on your back and pick all the pieces of the old O-ring out of the filter holder groove and DO NOT over tighten or you will warp the filter housing. If the oil filter canister leaks afterwards there is still a small piece of old O-ring in the groove. We used to only change the oil filter O-ring about every other oil change. Oil and filter change should take about 6.5 US quarts.

I will post more later.
JimB

Phil Tibbetts · May 27, 2013

I would check the hydraulic filter. I have seen some with the screen rotted away. It is located by your right foot when sitting on the seat. loosen the rubber hose section and slide it ahead and the filter can be pulled out with the short piece of tubing. just an o-ring seals it in the housing. If it is okay it can be washed out and reused.

Phil Tibbetts · May 27, 2013

I also bought the spin on adapter for mine. It is available from Mahindra. I believe the 350 Mahindra is the correct model. Saves a lot of headaches. IMO

JimB2 · May 27, 2013

Hi, we used Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Diesel oil in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter.
Re glow plugs, this time of year the engine should start without waiting for indicator to glow red.
If you search the archive, someone posted there is a complete VW replacement for these glow plugs that heat up much faster. BTW the glow plugs are in series so if one burns out they all stop working.

I suggest that owner buys an Operators manual, they are available from this site.

Also it has a two stage clutch, half way stops transmission all the way to foot rest stops PTO.

JimB

IHC B-275

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