air condtioner 1066 I/H

Need to do work on the A/C on 1066 I/H. Question; What has to be done to change to R134A Freon. would be helpful to hear the does and don"ts to get the best performance, was wondering about the expantion valve

thanks for any help
 
I guess to be absolutely legal, you should change out that expansion valve. However, I'd didn't and the thing works just fine for me.

Be sure and use the proper oil and fill 'er up with 134a.

DON'T OVER FILL IT!

Allan
 
Well, you can put 134a in the system and it will probably work fine for a year. Since you already have a leak, you will probably end up charging it next year anyway.

There are a few things that are recommended for the conversion.

I work for the company that makes Hot Shot (an R12 replacement) and can tell you that in order to use 134a, you should change the rubber seals and hoses to 134a compatible materials. You should also flush the lines and change the oil to a 134a compatible oil.

Whatever you do, pull a vacuum on the system before you charge it. You will never get the cooling you are looking for with the lines full of non-condensables (air).

If you want to, you can call our technical support line at 1-866-433-TECH and Jamey will help you out. Just tell him Matt told you to call.
 
You should drain compressor and use Ester oil. Mineral oil and R134A are not 100 percent compatable but will tolerate some left over in system. I always install new filter drier. Sometimes new expansion valve. If cruddy system I flush, if not I just blow it out. Best to use nitrogen to blow as air has moisture in it. Just don't blow through new drier of course. You have to vacuum system to get rid of moisture and air. On those factory 66 series, you need to spend a great deal of time on cleaning the externals of that dirt infested condensor and make sure both fans are working good. Evaporator under roof may be full of dirt also. Have to be sure the evaporator is sealing properly also so air does not just go around in stead of through it.
 
Ester oil is what is usually used in retro-fitting like you are doing there. The expansion valve should be okay with 134a if it was working with the old R-12. I would put some dye in too, you can be sure it will be leaking out somewhere over time. Be certain to pull a good vacuum on it for 15-20 minutes at least, you will need a pump for that capable of getting a 25-30 vacuum reading. If it was me, I would try the coversion before replacing the hoses and seals, thats just me. It just wont cool as good as it did with R 12, and the pressures will read a little different, but it should work.
 

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