F-20 crankshaft ball-bearings

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have the motor disassembled, and now I'm left with having to decide whether or not to replace the crankshaft ball-bearings. There are some small pits an the balls and they make a low growl noise. But don't they usually sound like that when they're new also?
I've located the same sizes in metric online. About $170 for the front and rear bearings.
What's your opinion? Could I also find the ball-bearings at a auto store?
 
The original bearings were "full complement" bearings meaning that they had a notch in the race so that all the balls possible could be loaded into them. There was no seperator between the balls. IH was confident enough that they put a lifetime warranty on them. Case doesn"t honor that today. The bearings are a standard size, but most that you find are not full complement. It means that the load capacity is less. Generally, if it"s just going to be a showpiece, it won"t make a lot of difference, they will work just fine. Going to put it back to work, consider finding the full complement replacement. I went through this om my regular when I had the engine done.
 
(quoted from post at 08:43:22 05/19/13) I have the motor disassembled, and now I'm left with having to decide whether or not to replace the crankshaft ball-bearings. There are some small pits an the balls and they make a low growl noise. But don't they usually sound like that when they're new also?
I've located the same sizes in metric online. About $170 for the front and rear bearings.
What's your opinion? Could I also find the ball-bearings at a auto store?

You should replace them, not only because of the rust pits but also because they have many years of wear and I bet they are as loose as a goose. Yes, new bearings make a little noise when they are dry, but add a little oil or grease and they are almost silent. I put new bearings in the pre 1939 IHC engines that I rebuild. I get new metric ball bearings off of ebay, much cheaper than anywhere else. 6313 is the number for the front bearing and 6315 for the rear.

Here are some bearings, they are shielded or sealed, just pry out the seals and then press them on the crankshaft.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6315-Be...Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item3cc904289c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-..._Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item1c066b8af

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EBC-BEA...Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item43ae11b271
 
Put the new ones in, Know a guy with a F30 that howls like a banshee cause he didn't think that his were too bad.
I put the heavy ones in mine
3853132316_ee2f3ff82d_z.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:57:05 05/19/13) The original bearings were "full complement" bearings meaning that they had a notch in the race so that all the balls possible could be loaded into them. There was no seperator between the balls. IH was confident enough that they put a lifetime warranty on them. Case doesn"t honor that today. The bearings are a standard size, but most that you find are not full complement. It means that the load capacity is less. Generally, if it"s just going to be a showpiece, it won"t make a lot of difference, they will work just fine. Going to put it back to work, consider finding the full complement replacement. I went through this om my regular when I had the engine done.


if you want to spend the extra money thats your call, but ive replaced LOTS of crank bearings with the 'standard' duty bearings and they work just fine. my tractors are 'show queens' either, we plow and pull them. i have the light duty bearings in an F-20 thats at the 45 hrse mark. been in there for almost 9 years now with zero issues
 

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