Super A front axle

Honest opinions please, this piece has been welded by previous owner, it broke beside those welds, I don't think it will hold up for any amount of time if I weld it again.
I was thinking of replacing the piece that goes through the axle tube, but the dimensions don't match any schedule pipe available.
My question is try welding it or find a tractor yard with a good one?
I think having a piece machined would not be cost efective, unless there is something close.
Thanks for any help.

Only way that would hold up long is if you can weld a sleeve over it. What you would need to do is weld it on being sure to grind a V into it them slide a sleeve over it and then weld it on.
If your close enough to me I have a front axle off an A laying around that might work

I would replace the axle tube and be done with it. The axle for the 140 is reinforecd in this spot and should be more durable.

Al

V it out & weld it with 10018 or 7018 rods. Then add 3 sided pieces to reinforce it.

Put the pin back in and then clamp it fast so when welding you dont get it out of plumb then weld some three sided pieces for more support seen that done a few times beats getting the adjustable parts out as that is sometimes not an easy task. Just because the weld broke doesent mean you cant do a better job.

i got four front axles for a super a

I don't know what part of the country you live in, but I would replace it. I have gone through some of the photos of salvage yards I have been do and I came across quite a few nice, weld-free salvagable, complete front-ends; including a nice yellow industrial front end from an old highway department tractor.

I don't know what part of the country you live in, but I would replace it. I have gone through some of the photos of salvage yards I have been to and I came across quite a few nice, weld-free salvageable, complete front-ends; including a nice yellow industrial front end from an old highway department tractor.

They're out there, without question that's what I'd do.

Thanks for all the replys, I am looking to get it back together quick as I need the tractor to mow with, and will repair this one for a spare since I have three of these tractors.

Looks to me like whoever did the original repair just stuck it together and ran a bead of weld around it. Almost no penetration.

If you ground a deep V-notch in all the way around so you could get good penetration, I bet it would hold.

The Super M I bought last year had a similar (non) repair on the wishbone brace on the wide front. Whoever tried to weld it just put a bunch of dingleberries on the surface of the bar...

Just curious as to why you would use rods that cold (drag rods) for metal that thick? The steel would have been 60-Ksi yield strength so an E60 or E70 would be a good match. Next a hot rod would be necessary to get penetration like an E6011 or E7011 and I would use a 3/16 rod for this.

That is why I said to V it out first. That broken piece may be crystalized so use a high strength rod. If you add the pieces it may not be nesesary . I welded for a living & don't like come-backs.

I have to agree with a couple of the posters. That break CAN be repaired, and repaired well. As strong or stronger than the original weld. Key being that it is done correctly. Others have already outlined rods and the need to "V" the break.

If done the right way, it should last a lifetime............unless you drive it straight into a ditch in 4th................

had the exact problem in my super A.

I did a deep V grind and actually had a professional welder friend of mine do the welding, just to be sure.

Been using it for over a year now - still solid.

Might be obvious - but be sure to put the pin in place before welding to ensure it remains aligned properly.

It stands to reason that if the pin and bushing are worn, then there could be more fore/aft movement to the axle, thus enabling the force of the axle to bear on the outer end of the broken tube, rather than the entire length.

Suggest looking at the pin diameter and bore thru the axle & bushings, and make repairs here too.

True......as an old guy told me once: There are people with welders who do not hold a "welding" license, and only a "pilot's" license. For all they know how to do is "pile-it" on. There are many ways a poorly welded joint can be weaker than the original without proper techniques.

Pete

Me too, and I was just asking. I also have designed a lot of steel structures so I don"t come from a position of ignorance. Still I question mixing the 100 kis with the 60 ksi metal. I also would use the hotter rod but the hotter rod will tend to crystalize the metal more and quenching and hammer blows would be necessary. Otherwise the high strength steel does not mix well with the lower strength steel. In design we usually match the rod steel to the steel in the unit to be welded for best bonding. It is not personal and no insult was intended. You being an experience welder could probably take most any rod from 6011 to 10018 and make it work. The dobbers around could not take any combination of rods and get it to stick. To weave a weld in a V using a build up rod on a round pipe like you have described requires a lot of skill. This welding job under discussion needs a good and experienced welder to make it work. I have done a good bit of welding but it has been a while so I would not attempt this myself but would seek a welder who was working on a daily basis. If you don"t use it you will loose it and I think maybe I do not have the skill just now. Just saying it is mostly skill. Lmack

Thank for the reply. As I get older I like to think I am not loosing it. But it is better to stay in practice. I don't see as well as I used to but can still out do my kids with a stick welder.