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IH C

Geo-TH,In

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
My 1950 IH C has started perfectly for years. Used it 3 hours to mow grass. Loaded it on trailer to bring home. Gassed up on way home. Go to unload it and no fire. Thought I may have gotten bad gas. Checked, had good spark. Checked spark plug, it was dry and gray. Removed plug from bottom of carb, had gas. Took compressed air, cleaned off the only adjusting screw on carb, removed screw, blew out jet without taking carb off engine. Put adj. screw back in, plug on bottom of carb and now it works just like before. The gas from carb didn't have water or dirt in it. Something in the carb blocked the jet. Sediment bowl had nothing in it either. Tank has no rust. Go figure.
George
 
Is that one of those carbs with the non-adjustable main jets?? If yes then pull the brass plug cover off and see if you get a flow of gas out of that main jet. If you do not use a small wire etc, I use a torch tip cleaner tool and poke in the main jet to open it up. I have to do that once in a while on my BA
 
Old, it has a jet that I removed and blew out. It's backwards, screw it out and it runs leaner. I have it 4 full turns out and the plugs look like new with a gray coating.
George
 
See now if you would use an inline filter before the carb it would collect that dirt and wouldnt plug . Just replace the filter and go again. My tractor ride has the inline fram thats bee ther for 4 yrs must have a good tand ect as is has never plugged.
 
I put an inline filter in line on my Jubilee. What a mistake. It vapor locked when gas temps got to 135. Of course ford better idea was to locate the tank above the engine, muffler and the heat from the radiator all warms the gas and sometimes causes it to boil.

Someone said there is an inline that won't vapor lock, like a screen filter.

This is the only time this happened. Had tractor for about 5 years. Perhaps the ride on trailer caused rust on the top inside of carb to cause me trouble.

Good thing I had compressed air to fix it in a few minutes.

George
 
Check your ignition switch; the old grease in it may not allow a decent connection for power to get to the coil.
Neighbors tractor (green) did the same thing. Turned out that the points were oxidized. Clean them with fine abrasive & polish with a dollar bill.
 
EVERY tractor I have messed with that had an in line aftermarket filter on has cause so much trouble that I get a call to fix there tractor and all I do is remove the filter and throw it away and low and behold there tractor does not cuase any more problems. The correct sediment bowl and screen works just fine and does not cause the trouble many in line filter can and will BTDT too many times
 
That sounds like your adjusting the idle jet. On both the A and Bs and now my BA all those carbs had a non adjustable main jet with a brass plug over them so you pull that plug to clean them out. They sit low on the carb by the way
 
Back in the day we had to do this trick every spring after the tractors had set up. Bad gasoline, old gasoline, or trash/rust we had to clear the sediment bowl, fuel line and carburetor to get them running in the spring. Nothing unusual about your experience but a lesson to the rest of us.
 
Old, I think, could be wrong, but the only jet on carb seems to be the hi-speed jet. When I got it, the jet was turned all the way in. Plugs were totally black instantly and it used lots of gas.

I put 2 small washers under jet so I could turn it 4 turns out. Spring wasn't long enough. I love it. Gray pulgs, uses very little gas compared to what it did use. When I finish mowing on a hot day, I'll let it cool off for a few minutes so the engine doesn't diesel.

I'm not making any more adjustments to carb.
George
 
Sure they do plug because they catch the fines that the sediment screen passes. Tons of people use them as you see them at shows and tractor rides. The little Fram see thru ones are great as you can even see the fines by looking. You people that say they dont work are wrong cause they sure do but when they get plugged its time to replace.
 
You should also qualify the type of filter. The ones made to be run on cars and trucks DO NOT well because if the fact a fuel pump is in place so it has to be a TRUE gravity flow filter or it will cause problems from the get go. I tried both a couple times on a couple tractors and found the ones made for autos do not work well at all but ones made for a true gravity flow system did work but I'll still not use them
 
The one on the throat with the spring is for idle mixture and has nothing to do with hi-speed mixture. Your carb has fixed jet for hi-speed or power whatever you want to call it. Your carb must need to be cleaned.
 
The Fram clear plastic ones and i use rubber fuel line so they are easy to changs and also you can see the fines in them. After time if ever when all that stuff gets worked out of the tank you coulod do away with them. I have one thats been on many 175 mi tractor rides and also parades and it never has plugged but the tank appears to be clean. Now the top are in the tanks sometimes have rust on them and when the tank is full and driving around that rust will get thru the screen on the sediment bowl and thats when the in-line filter will get plugged cause its just doing its job. They only cost couple bucks.
 
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