Super A front rims. HELP!

I had a flat LF tire. It was checkered and in overall bad shape. Bought some tires and went to change them. When I went to use the tire irons they went right through the rims. So I came here to buy a rim. I found this:
"Front Rim - Adjustable, blank front rim (no center). 3 x 15, with 3 loops. For models A, Super A, Super A1 B and C and Super C, 100, 130, 140, 200, 230 with Adjustable Tread Wheels".
1) Adjustable?? How do you adjust a rim? What are they talking about?
2) What are "Adjustable Tread Wheels"?
3) They say "blank front rim" and then "with 3 loops". Which is it? Are they blank, or do they have the mount brackets?
So now I"m confused. So I go to some other sites that list "front rim blank" and another rim that says "Front rim with 3 mounting tabs". Ok I get that. But that doesn"t help me with wanting to buy from this site because of the wealth of info I have gleaned from here.
Also, if I do buy a blank front rim, I"ve read that you just weld the mounts from the old rims on the new ones. The problem for me with that is my brackets on my "48 Super A are cast and riveted on.
4)How do you weld cast brackets onto a steel rim?
5)Are the rivets available for the cast mounts?
Wow! I didn"t think buying a rim was going to turn into such a big deal.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Dave

if u got camera, post a picture of old rim

I think you need to buy the 3 loop rim. If your rim has three loops on it then it should match. The 3 loop rim was made to allow for greater adjustability, the blank rim and hub only go together one way.
Zach

The loop tabs are not on center. thus allowing multiple positions inside of mount outside of mount, reversed inside and outside, Jim

The advice about getting looped rims is the best answer, but you ask so here it comes. The old loops can be removed from the old rims using a combination of a grinder, cold chisel, and/or cutting torch. If you can't manage to get the old loops off and cleaned up you do not need to be installing the old loops on a new rim. (Never torch or weld a rim with a tire in place inflated or not if you wish to live a long life.) Be sure the old rivets are ground smooth. With the rivets ground and drilled out you could consider mounting the loops to the new blank rims with new rivets . . . but you ask about welding. Arc weld using nickel/cadmium rods specially designed for welding cast iron. It will bond to the black steel but the bond will not be as strong as a steel to steel weld. I have done it and it works. By the way have your loops bolted to the cast centers when you place the tack weld or drill the rivet holes.

The rim from Yesterdays Tractors should be what you need, just call and ask. A machine shop can put those clamps on a blank wheel. I looked into it. It would have cost a lot more to get the original style clamps put on. Just call Yesterdays Tractors and I'm sure they will have the front rims like in the picture.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-Super-A_Front-Rim_57095D.html

My original wheels:



Aftermarket:

My 1948 Super A has the plane rims which are held to the wheel by 3 clamps. No Loops.

You cannot buy the ones with loops original. But you can buy new rims with a welded piece that will bolt to your centers. The adjustable rims with the loops were used to adjust tread width on narrow fronts. Why I-H used rims with loops on the adjustable front axles is sort of funny. The center hub is also different for the loop style. If you go to the plain rims that clamp you need to change the cast centers. I have some good original ones with loops if you are interested.

i have good original rims

Sounds like you've got rims like GRAPE-DRANK. The adjustable style. You'll be best served by using the rims with the 3 tabs pre-welded. Even though they're not original looking. Put the tabs on the inside of the wheel and you won't see them.

Blank rims are for clamp type wheels, or you can add the loops from your old wheel to the new ones.

I wouldn't weld them. Rivet them if you can. I dunno, maybe carriage bolts would work to bolt the cast loops to the new rims???

(quoted from post at 05:42:25 04/30/13) Sounds like you've got rims like GRAPE-DRANK. The adjustable style. You'll be best served by using the rims with the 3 tabs pre-welded. Even though they're not original looking. Put the tabs on the inside of the wheel and you won't see them.

Blank rims are for clamp type wheels, or you can add the loops from your old wheel to the new ones.

I wouldn't weld them. Rivet them if you can. I dunno, maybe carriage bolts would work to bolt the cast loops to the new rims???

Click to expand...

+1 Agreed

These machines aren't exactly concourse automobiles that have to have everything correct to maintain their value. They are workhorses. The aftermarket design that are pre-welded is a better design at about half the price (maybe more depending on labor involved) of getting a blank rim and riveting the old clamps on. Like I stated in a previous post, I looked into that. The aftermarket holds a bead really well too and holds air. No complaints. BTW, you have four different options of how you want to mount the pre-welded aftermarket rim.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks everyone, for the help and education.