(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

H charging system

P

peanuthil12

New User
Hi all.
Don't want to just sign-up to this deal and start asking stuff so Here's a little about me

I am retired Army up in Dalbo (near Cambridge) Mn. built on 10 acres in '03. retired in 06, bought a farmall 300, side rake, bailer, syckle cutter, and am doing my own hay.

I've split this tractor 2wice and learned a lot. Now I'm running into charging issues.

I follow the (converted 12V) alt., single wire, to the dash where it goes to a on off toggle. then to a voltage regulator on the left side. At least that what a picture of the replacement item shows on Yesterdays tractor replacement part list. I'm pretty sure I fried something somewhere as I saw smoke coming from the dash at one point after I tried replacing the toggle.

All finished with replacing the switch. started cleaning out the cow pen and the gage showed the batt charging. Didn't have a problem the rest of the day. Went out this morning and ran her a bit, shut it down after noticing that the gage didn't look like it did yesterday. Not charging I figured. Went to start it back up. no deal, battery drained.

Should I replace the voltage regulator, the alternator, or wiring, or all of the above?
Thanks all
 
(quoted from post at 08:47:04 04/17/13) Hi all.
Don't want to just sign-up to this deal and start asking stuff so Here's a little about me

I am retired Army up in Dalbo (near Cambridge) Mn. built on 10 acres in '03. retired in 06, bought a farmall 300, side rake, bailer, syckle cutter, and am doing my own hay.

I've split this tractor 2wice and learned a lot. Now I'm running into charging issues.

I follow the (converted 12V) alt., single wire, to the dash where it goes to a on off toggle. then to a voltage regulator on the left side. At least that what a picture of the replacement item shows on Yesterdays tractor replacement part list. I'm pretty sure I fried something somewhere as I saw smoke coming from the dash at one point after I tried replacing the toggle.

All finished with replacing the switch. started cleaning out the cow pen and the gage showed the batt charging. Didn't have a problem the rest of the day. Went out this morning and ran her a bit, shut it down after noticing that the gage didn't look like it did yesterday. Not charging I figured. Went to start it back up. no deal, battery drained.

Should I replace the voltage regulator, the alternator, or wiring, or all of the above?
Thanks all
Click to expand...

Why would there be a voltage regulator? The 1 wire alternator should ahve a built in regulator.
 
If you have a one wire alternator, the wire simply goes to the ammeter. Off of the same post, a wire will go to your ignition switch and to your light switch, (hopefully through a fuse) The other ammeter post should have a wire leading to either the bsttery directly, or more likely, to the post on the starte which is connected to the battery. If it shows discharge on the ammeter in that configuration, swap the wires from post to post on the ammeter. If it still won't charge, pull the alternator and take it to a shop to be tested.
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:36 04/17/13) Good question. What else could that square box be on the left side?
Click to expand...
t this point, I don't think we can be sure what alternator you have. Does it look like this, note plug shape & location.
 
(quoted from post at 10:47:43 04/17/13) I'm gonna head out and check out the alt. now. I'll post my repair. Thanks for the help so far.
Click to expand...
he numbers on the alt. are "1G 9 12V Neg 1102452 37A.

The wiring goes all over the place. The starter has a selinoid on top that the bat. and alt. eventually go to. Then there's another post on it where a red wire goes from it to a wraped wiring harness. From there I don't know where that one goes or comes from.
 
(quoted from post at 15:40:06 04/17/13)
(quoted from post at 10:47:43 04/17/13) I'm gonna head out and check out the alt. now. I'll post my repair. Thanks for the help so far.
Click to expand...
he numbers on the alt. are "1G 9 12V Neg 1102452 37A.

The wiring goes all over the place. The starter has a selinoid on top that the bat. and alt. eventually go to. Then there's another post on it where a red wire goes from it to a wraped wiring harness. From there I don't know where that one goes or comes from.
Click to expand...
ased on the numbers, it is a 10DN, using an external regulator and NOT the picture(10SI) that I sent you earlier. It should have a plug on the rear with those 2 wires going to the external regulator. One or two other wire should connect to regulator also.
Should look like this:
 
Thanks Jmor. You're probably right but as I look at the alt. there's only one wire coming off the post going to a toggle on the dash. Then a 2nd from the toggle to a resistor of some sort next to the alternator. then from a post on the resistor to the volt regulator routed under the gas tank. There's 3 wires hooked to the top post of the volt. reg. as far as I can tell. Two come from the ignition switch. I think the third on that post is form the resistor near the alt.. On the bottom post of the volt reg there's a wire going to the harness that's wraped so I can't quite tell where it coming from.
Thanks for your help. I think the problem may be that there's no plug coming out of the Alt.
 
(quoted from post at 09:17:52 04/18/13) Thanks Jmor. You're probably right but as I look at the alt. there's only one wire coming off the post going to a toggle on the dash. Then a 2nd from the toggle to a resistor of some sort next to the alternator. then from a post on the resistor to the volt regulator routed under the gas tank. There's 3 wires hooked to the top post of the volt. reg. as far as I can tell. Two come from the ignition switch. I think the third on that post is form the resistor near the alt.. On the bottom post of the volt reg there's a wire going to the harness that's wraped so I can't quite tell where it coming from.
Thanks for your help. I think the problem may be that there's no plug coming out of the Alt.
Click to expand...
he "F" of the R & F on the alt plug is for FIELD, & without that input current to alt field, you get no output at BATT terminal. F is fed from the regulator. Need all 4 VR wires if VR is SS, but can function with 3 if older elector-meahanical type. This shows connections schematically AND pictorially.


 
Alrighty then JMOR. Guess I got some research to do and some wiring to correct. Right now I'm looking at 10" of snow on my deck. Moisture is nice in any form...right? I'll keep this post going on my repair.
Thanks again
 
JMOR, thanks for your help with wiring diagrams. After taking the alt in for testing it turns out to be regulated. As I followed the wiring around I found that the external regulator wasn't actually being used but the post's were being used to tie some wiring together. The tester guy said that my tractor (300) needed to rev up for the alt. to excite. So now, I rev the motor, flip the toggle and...bam...alternator sends charge to batt. I need to leave the toggle on while operation and then shut it off just when done to not have a discharge.
I should be good for now
Thanks again.
 
Turns out that the vol reg was from the old 6V sys. The owner didn't take it off after installing the new reg. He was using it to sort of connect wiring going to the starter and dash. The 300 dowsn't give off enough rpm's for this particular alternator so the toggle switch is used to excite it when I get the rpms up 3/4 throttle. Once it excites it keeps charging at any rpm.

I was able to clean up a lot of wiring after figuring this all out.

Now, yesterday, before cutting 4 acres of hay, I noticed gas in the oil. It seems like a lot of gas as it ran pretty steady out of the oil level check. I also noticed a class 3 oil leak from somewhere near the governor onto the rail frame on the left side of the tractor. This should be interesting. I imagine it has something to do with rings and pistons. Maybe somehow it's getting too much gas through the carb and its sucking in the block. It may be time to start searching for a 400 class 'cause this 300 seems to be a bit underpowered for what I like to do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

4
Farmall A charging questions
Replies
14
Views
659
gene bender
G
R
1954 Super H Still Not Charging
Replies
7
Views
296
BarnyardEngineering
BarnyardEngineering
J
1486 charging system
Replies
4
Views
420
jhncp
J
M
Kohler non-VR 14hp Command Rider CV14ST-1490 charging battery @ 16.0v
Replies
2
Views
178
MrCreosote
M
M
9700 charging system
Replies
2
Views
164
Fritz Maurer
F
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top