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Super M liftall shaft seal

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have liftall out of tractor. Is there anyway to remove coupling without disassembling pump?, I am also assuming seal can be dug out once coupling is removed. Any tips appreciated.
 
Coupling will unscrew from the shaft. Can"t remember if its reverse threads. You will have to insert a rod through the filler hole into the gears to hold it from turning. Once out you can just remove the old seal.
 
If you weld a bar to fit the slot across a old socket and keep bumping a impact wrench several times you may get lucky. Probably you won't be lucky and the rear cover and pump will need to be removed from the reservoir. After the cover with pump attached is off, something flat that won't hurt the gears can be put in the suction hole to block the gears from turning.
 
(quoted from post at 05:12:46 03/25/13) If you weld a bar to fit the slot across a old socket and keep bumping a impact wrench several times you may get lucky. Probably you won't be lucky and the rear cover and pump will need to be removed from the reservoir. After the cover with pump attached is off, something flat that won't hurt the gears can be put in the suction hole to block the gears from turning.
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You know more than me, but why can't you just put something in the fill hole to jam up the gears without taking the rear cover off? That is how the I&T manual says to take it apart and how I have done it in real life.
 
Maybe I'm stupid,dumb or crazy. But if you can get to a SM belly pump gears through the fill opening my hats off to you.
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:26 03/25/13) I have liftall out of tractor. Is there anyway to remove coupling without disassembling pump?, I am also assuming seal can be dug out once coupling is removed. Any tips appreciated.
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Only a few bolts to separate it plus you may want to change the lever seal and pump gasket anyway.

Also is a good time to inspect the linkages and clean the reservoir.
 
(quoted from post at 07:11:46 03/25/13) Maybe I'm stupid,dumb or crazy. But if you can get to a SM belly pump gears through the fill opening my hats off to you.
Click to expand...

Why? There is not need to take the gear off to change the input coupling seal. You take the seal off from the outside, pry the seal out, and reinstall the new seal. You don't even have to tighten up the coupling because the tractor does that itself.
 
(quoted from post at 12:07:39 03/25/13)
(quoted from post at 07:11:46 03/25/13) Maybe I'm stupid,dumb or crazy. But if you can get to a SM belly pump gears through the fill opening my hats off to you.
Click to expand...

Why? There is not need to take the gear off to change the input coupling seal. You take the seal off from the outside, pry the seal out, and reinstall the new seal. You don't even have to tighten up the coupling because the tractor does that itself.
Click to expand...

Yes, but you must separate the pump unit from the reservoir to push something into the gears, no need to open the pump itself.
 
If you can get a flat piece of iron through the fill hole to the bottom of the reservoir and up the intake of the pump to hold the gears I want to see this done.
 
I too often hear about putting a rod down fill hole and I do agree that would be a real good trick. The only thing you will get out of doing that is feeling the bottom of the reservoir. What the book actually says, or if it is a misprint, should say is that you put the rod up throuogh the intake of the pump after the pump is removed from the reservoir. I would be darn careful doing that also. Just give it some darn good raps with a brass drift and hammer on the coupler in a counter clockwise direction or hook it to an air wrench with a home made adaptor.
 

picture
16146.jpg

I didn't mean the gear needed removed. Just that if the coupling won't come loose from the outside the plate needs removed from the reservoir and then the gear on the coupling shaft can be blocked from turning.
Hole to access gears is the square looking part of the pump housing in picture. Opening is turned down to the bottom of the reservoir and the opening is close to the bottom. Lot more distance up inside to the gears from opening than distance from opening to the bottom of the reservoir housing. Book is wrong if it says block through the fill opening.
 
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