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SH wont fire

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IAtractorKid

Member
Hey guys! Need a little help here, working on a "53 SuperH.

It has been sitting a while and I am hoping to get it running here soon. Anyway, I had it firing a few weeks ago but could not keep it running for more than 30 seconds or so.

Anyway now I cant get it to run at all, just sputters here and there. Has all new wiring, new battery, new cables (battery and sparkplug), new points, rotor, condensor, cap, coil.

I rebuilt the carb and have had it back apart twice already trying to find something wrong. Wondering if I have a hole in the manifold so it is not creating the vacuum it should be???
 
Why did you replace EVERYTHING when you did not know what was wrong?

You have to start from scratch now.
 
First thing to do is check you spark. It needs to be a blue/white and jump a 1/4 inch gap or more on all 4 plug wires. Next the wires have to be in the right order as in firing order did you by chance mix them up?? Next you need a good steady flow of gas out the carb drain plug for 3 plus minutes. Catch it so as to check for water etc. Also if compression is to low from sitting a long time you might want to pour say a 1/4 cup of ATF in each cylinder and let ti sit a day or too
 
Its either in the spark or fuel system, make sure you have a good flow of gas going into the carb. Then check the points, make sure the gap is right, and when you break the points, you have good blue spark. Remove a plug, leave with hooked to it, lay it on the engine and crank it over to see if the plug is firing. Also the carb need to be adjusted, main jet, start at 1-1/2 turns out from light seat.
 
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor while a helper makes an attempt to start the engine. See if there's good suction. If the suction is weak pull the sparkplugs and do a compression check. Write down the readings you get and post them on here. Low suction is an indication of low intake manifold vacuum. You need that manifold vacuum to suck the atomized fuel into the combustion chamber. Hal
 
Replaced everything because it has been sitting and I want it to run good when I get it going.

Points are gapped correctly and I have good spark at them and all plugs. Plug wires are in the correct order.

I have what I would call good flow out of the tank and into the carb. Needle seams to be sticking some, not very hard though, I can shake the carb and get it to drop back down. Its a new rubber tipped one that came with the carb kit. Never had trouble with one sticking like that...what do I do about that?
 
Forgot to mention I had previously put ATF in the cylinders and have also done a compression check, 125-135 on all cylinders. Will check suction at the carb and hopefully get something figured out with this needle.
 
yes, those rubber tipped needles can stick. That may well be your problem. Somebody a while back mentioned something they used to keep it from sticking. I rubbed dust on one one time to make it not stick.
 
I will not use a rubber tip valve but you have one so try this. The sides of the needle are a little too big, (this is common in Made in Chine carb parts) just file the three sides a small amount or I like steel wool,it will polish without taking off too much. Be sure you are doing the outside points of the valve, not the smaller sides.
 
Float valve is sticking. Next thing I"d check is the sediment bowl. Make sure you"ve got full flow coming out of the tank. Even a little bit of scale/crud can mess it up.
 
Had a similar problem with a Case tractor. Everything seemed to be working as it should. Ended up finding that the spark plugs would not fire under compression but would fire OK on the bench. Seemed to happen overnight. Put in new plugs and started right up and has run great ever since. Just one thing more to check. Had me scratching my head for a while. Good luck, Allan.
 
(quoted from post at 18:36:42 03/22/13) Replaced everything because it has been sitting and I want it to run good when I get it going.

Points are gapped correctly and I have good spark at them and all plugs. Plug wires are in the correct order.

I have what I would call good flow out of the tank and into the carb. Needle seams to be sticking some, not very hard though, I can shake the carb and get it to drop back down. Its a new rubber tipped one that came with the carb kit. Never had trouble with one sticking like that...what do I do about that?
Click to expand...

I've rebuilt a BUNCH of those carbs. Those needle valves, and seats, need to be cleaned with carb and choke cleaner before installing, and to take it just one step further, give both the needle and seat a quick shot of aerosol silicon spray lube. Guaranteed to work.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Tried a different needle I had and it stuck too so bought another new needle and seat assembly from IH. Still rubber tipped as that is all they said was available but this one seems to be working just fine. First time I have had trouble with a needle sticking!

Had to make a few adjustments to the governor linkages to get it to idle down as it should but I think this SH is finally ready for a test drive after being parked for 25+ years!
 
Three things come to mind, that Ihave found on my H;
Carb float ... the inside of the float chamber is tight, right up agianst the float, and soemtimes the float rubs slightly and sticks. Try a Dremel, and smooth out the ID of the chamber.
Sediment Bowl .... it can look perfect, but sometimes pieces of crub can stick in the tight inside passage of that bowl inlet. I had that happen. On mine, what you would think was a direct opening was not, it turned and twisted, and got plugged up.
Points ..... I thought I had set them perfect, but I cannot set points. I had mine set about 1/4". My brother re-set mine, and she fired right up!!
 
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