using a farmall 450 without sleeves

I have seen where more than a few pullers run farmalls sleeveless and im considering doing the same BUT i still plan to pull and farm with mine, im looking for someone who has had personal experience with doing this and how it held up over time. My biggest concern is how much softer is the dry block casting than a sleeve
 
I should also mention this is going in a 1940 m and i plan on keeping the original motor that runs as back up, the 450 motor was bought from scrap so im not real concerned with not being able to resleeve it if the need would occur
 
I have a 264 block bored to 4.38.I go to a few plow days and drive it to local pulls or shows(20 mile round trip)and havent had any problems.I would find someone with a sonic tester to check the wall thickness of the bores.
ep
 

Shouldn't be a problem. If you can't put the extra power to the ground, you aren't going to pull any better. It will just spin out quicker. Been there and done it. When the sled hits your tractor you ought to come up about a foot in the front. If you can keep it there you have the correct hitching point. I have pulled an M for years. There are so many variables that you never know what will ahppen from hitch to hitch. good luck.....
 
Traction isn't much of an issue as our club doesn't weigh the tractors, just goes by plows it was originally rated to pull. I've got mine up to 8500lbs right now so power is my next stop
Really appriciate the input
 
(quoted from post at 09:06:30 03/19/13) Traction isn't much of an issue as our club doesn't weigh the tractors, just goes by plows it was originally rated to pull. I've got mine up to 8500lbs right now so power is my next stop
Really appriciate the input

:shock:
 
I didnt use a filler ring.I am sure this looses some compression but I didn"t like the idea of a ring breaking,but I know people do it.
ep
 
when I was rebuilding my H I asked a farmer I'm friends with, who used to be really into tractor pulling, about running my H block sleeveless with the bigger pistons. He told me that car engines are sleeveless and they run higher RPM's for 100's of thousands of miles without issues. So a tractor engine which is a little more robust than a car engine should hold up fine.

That doesn't really answer your question but I just wanted to share what was told to me when I asked about the same thing.
 
49h your answer is what I though, but someone brought up the nickle content of the block casting possibly being less causing the cylinders to be softer than a normal sleeveless motor, that's why I am hoping to see how one has held up to real use
Thanks
 
Been there and done that. If you run without sleeves you won't be able to ever rebuild that engine. I bought a Farmall M with no sleeves and didn't know it until I took the head off. It was going to cost more to re bore it than to buy a used engine. Also the cylinder wall thickness would be questionable. I bought a used block and had it professionally tanked, Ellis
 
(quoted from post at 16:32:32 03/19/13) Been there and done that. If you run without sleeves you won't be able to ever rebuild that engine. I bought a Farmall M with no sleeves and didn't know it until I took the head off. It was going to cost more to re bore it than to buy a used engine. Also the cylinder wall thickness would be questionable. I bought a used block and had it professionally tanked, Ellis

He is well aware of that. In his second post he said, "the 450 motor was bought from scrap so im not real concerned with not being able to resleeve it if the need would occur." He knows it is "the last rebuild."

How long did your M last rebuilt like that? You say you bought it used, so you might not know the exact history but a guess is better than nothing.
 

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