Shifting a Farmall Super M into road gear.

Good day, folks.

When using a Farmall Super M (particularly a Stage II Model), If I am on a flat, but turning onto a road, (like coming out of my driveway), do I have to do a goofy clutch, shift-stick, and throttle alternation doohickey? I might get a Farmall Super M soon, and wanted to find out some facts.

Or, how do you shift into a higher gear, if you have to do the throttle-clutch-shift alternation? (How do you do the alternation?)

I hope I didn't confuse you! Please respond. Thanks.
 
5th gear will grind if you aren't careful. Although I don't always do this, it is best to push in the clutch, slow the engine and shift carefully into 5th. If you don't do that and you do it often before long it won't stay in 5th. 5th is not really a gear, it is direct drive consisting of a splined male shaft engaging a splined female shaft, the splines wear every time it is shifted.
 
i usually start out in 4th gear then throttle back and shift into 5th. and then give it throttle. they will also start out in 5th at an idle with no problem. dont matter if farmall m or 560 same concept.if these tractors wont start out in 5th gear there is something wrong with it. its all in your tractor shifting experience whatever works for you.
 
With my H I would start in 5th on the flat unless I was pulling
something heavy and then would have to start in 4th and shift
up. My experience is that it would shift up a gear easily but
downshifting while in motion was not easy nor worth the damage
it did to the gears. I found it best to shift slowly and feel my way
into 5th to avoid grinding, this was fine unless I was going uphill
and ran out of momentum. With the TA in the 300 when pulling
a load I could start out in 4th high, step on the clutch and shift
to 5th low and then once I got up to speed push the TA to high
and get up to speed easily. If you have a SMTA it should work
the same way if it has a working TA.
Zach
 
Had one for years and shifted with out any problem, just takes a lot of experimenting with your motor speed and etc., you'll get on to it. What really shifts nice is the ones with the M&W over drive .
 
This is nothing but what we call double clutching its the same thing that you have to to do with some large trucks.
 
It is just something you learn by doing and you will learn a little bit every time you shift from 4th to 5th for awhile. I think I transitioned very easily as a kid as our farm truck was a 1950 Ford 3/4 ton 4 speed on the floor non-syno transmission which I learned first. On the M you will probably find it easier to shift slowly out of 4th while decreasing engine rpm's and slowly non-forceful feathering it into 5th. If you have some gear clash just try more time and different engine speeds and you will get it down fairly quickly is my guess. Asking a question of this nature already shows something in your mind that it will require a little technique in mastering the process. Get the Super M and have some fun, Hal.
 
Wide open 4th, go to neutral, drop to dead idle, once RPMS drop, clutch and go into 5th.

When pulling a load and needing to downshift, let her lug way down first, or you'll grind into 4th.

Shifting doesn't hurt them, as long as you get your RPM down enough first.
 
It's not goofy at all. It's called "double
clutching" I learned it real fast one day when I was
about ten years old. I was coming in the yard with
our Ford 9N and a load of hay and going from 3rd to
2nd the gearshift lever popped out of the lid. I
needed to get it back in gear, any gear, fast,
before it started rolling backward.
 
Don't worry if you grind the gears a little while you're learning. You're not going to damage the tractor unless you just never get a clue and keep grinding and grinding and grinding.

There is always the chance that you COULD have problems the first time you grind the gears. It's not your fault. You didn't cause it by grinding the gears once. The tractor is 60+ years old, and was wore out when you bought it.

That is the chance you take when playing with antique tractors. You can get one that's like new inside, or you can get one that's completely clapped out. There's really no way to tell until you get it home and start using it.
 
"do I have to do a goofy clutch, shift-stick, and throttle alternation doohickey?"

Goofy? No, it's not even hard to do.

It is called double clutching, SCOTC gave you a good description of how to do it.


What is goofy is watching all the people for whom an automatic transmission is all they know try to drive a farm tractor.
 
Lance,

There is a quick and easy solution to your "problem". Go buy a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission, air conditioning, power steering, power brakes, power this and that, radio, and a cigarette lighter.

Then you won"t have to face a challenge the rest of your days. Just hit the throttle.

Leave the old hard-to-operate goofy-clutching tractors to us old guys to enjoy. We promise not to tell you what you are missing in life.

LA in WI
 
I've seen Bob M's double clutch technique on youtube... I've never tried. When i pulled wagons with the M I had, I would wind it up fairly high in 4th, hit the clutch, throttle down, and ease it into 5th. It worked for me. No wagon, or empty wagon, I would start out in 5th. But I'm on flat ground. I bought a 450D, now I just start out in 5th TA, then shift to direct. Easy like sunday morning.

By the way, please don't be scared away by a few guys on here who have the need to be borderline insulting... at least that's how I have taken things once or twice. A little good natured ribbing, maybe. Most guys on here actually want to help you! -Andy
 
Double clutch it.

I used to haul a lot of hay with our W-4 4th to 5th, 5th to 4th, it can be done, no grinding, just practise and know how.

The videos posted show you exactly what to do.

The key is not to shift into 4th if you are going faster than 4th gear would normally go, and not into 5th if you aren't rolling decently.
 
If I wasn't under load I took what time I needed for the 5-4. Under load (like mentioned above), if lugged down about ready to stall, I could stab the clutch and let it right out, with a simultaneous swift movement of the lever, and be in 4th.
 
Thank you all for your responses!!!!

Some of you who made fun of my question, saying I need a newer tractor; your comments were NOT appreciated.

TO: Andy FC: Thanks for noting that some like to make fun, and I appreciated that.

I might buy a Farmall H, so those of you who added in stuff about your H's, I also appreciated that.

Again, Thanks!!! :D :D :D :D
 

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