Farmall C wiring

Looking for a little help. I have a 'C' that has a genny that's been converted to 12 volt. It has a V.R.. I'm looking for a wiring diagrahm. Right now whats happening is it will drain the battery overnight.
With a diagrahm I can at least see if its hooked up correct and go from there. Its a new to me tractor so I have no history on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The link will take you to diagrams. Assuming it is a generator (not an aluminum alternator)
The discharge over night is unusual in that the amount of draw would be similar to leaving the ignition, or lights on. and not at all like having a shorted charging system. That usually smokes parts.
Method:
Use a test light to assure that the generator has no power connected to it with the tractor off. if so it is not the issue.
Remove the cover to gain access to the electrical back of amp gauge.
Test every terminal with a test light.
Both terminals of the amp gauge should be hot.
The kill switch (push pull) should have power at the connection to the amp gauge, but none at the ignition side with the button in. and volts at both when the switch is out.
The light switch should have power going in, and when off, no power going out.
If it has a 4 position light switch, the field connection should be disconnected (VR now has that responsibility). The switch should have voltage going to the lights in D and B. After some testing, get back to us with more detail.
Jim
Bob M diagrams

John T testing

Thank you sir. Will try and check it out after work tomorrow providing no late jobs.
I printed out your post and the diagrahms. I do know the genny is good. Had it tested when I first got it. V-reg came off a working tractor (friends). Will let you know what I find.
Thanks

Just a quick note. Looking at the dwgs. they are for 6v.. Other than mine being negative ground I take it the rest of the wiring is the same.

No different, Just the number on the bulbs. Ground is only important in that if Neg ground, the coil should have the neg attached to the dist. not the positive terminal. Jim

MINE DID THE SAME THING. THE 12 VOLT COIL I PUT ON DID NOT HAVE A RESITOR SO THE COIL WAS GETTING PRETTY DAMM HOT AND KILLING THE BATTERY IN JUST A FEW HOURS. I INSTALLED A REMOTE RESITOR FROM NAPA.NO MORE PROBLEMS

(quoted from post at 11:23:30 03/05/13) No different, Just the number on the bulbs. Ground is only important in that if Neg ground, the coil should have the neg attached to the dist. not the positive terminal. Jim

Click to expand...

We're good there. - of coil to dist.
Here's what I've got. The A & F on the genny were hooked up backwards to the V-reg. Switched them.
Now looking at Dwg. 2 from your link.... dwg.of the V-reg shows connection points of Gen - -F - -BAT - -L
My V-reg has ....
Gen (hooked to A on the genny)
Bat (hooked to the ammeter)
F (hooked to F on the genny)
GRD (grounded to the frame)
No 'L' on mine.
One side of ammeter goes to starter-other side goes to BAT on v-reg, lite switch and + side of coil.
Mounted on the coil and hooked to the - dist. side is what looks like an ignition condensor???? No idea if the coil is 6v. or 12v. Been painted over.
Did not do any testing yet. Lets see what you get from this.

If the Gen and Field wires were hooked up backwards
Severe voltage regulator damage could occur. THe Generator is capable of producing voltage on its own. (residual magnetism in the field's iron pole pieces) this when pumped directly into the regulators field (because the gen output was hooked there) could fry the field control relay contacts. The field windings in the Gen would not hurt the cutout relay in the regulator, but it is difficult to say (without looking at the regulator guts) if it is usable. The field circuit in the regulator is a grounding system. The field is supplied with voltage from the armature, and grounded (through vibrating points) in the VR.
Your connections are what I would expect. A condenser like thingy on the - coil terminal should be taken off. (assumes there is a condenser in the distributor)
If there is 4.5 or more amps running in the wire going to the coil when the points are closed and ignition is on, it probably needs a ballast resistor. A 12v coil with (no resistor required) written on it would be a good substitute.
If the current is more like 3 to 3.5 amps all is well with the coil. (at least for now)
Be aware that when the ignition is turned on the amp meter should go left to discharge. If it moves to the right, it is hooked up backwards.
Looking at the regulator points is a good idea. It should have the cover on when running the engine, as the cover changes the magnetism and might result in errors.
Charging voltage into a fully charged battery should be above 14 volts -- usually 14.2 to 14.6 is considered normal measured across the battery. A digital meter (unless very nice) might read trash voltages because they sample, not average. An analog type meter (needle) averages the "noisy voltages in a mechanical VR generator system. Let us know what happens. Jim

Thanks Jim,
I'll try and look at it tomorrow night.

Check the off on switch. I have had nothing but trouble with them. Even the new ones look like a switch, but they are internally junk.

(quoted from post at 10:24:09 03/06/13)
Check the off on switch. I have had nothing but trouble with them. Even the new ones look like a switch, but they are internally junk.

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This is actually a key switch - strickly on/off. Will look at it as well.

No problems with the switch.
I honestly don't even like asking for electrical help because I am beyond terrible with it. Its all foreign to me. Also all I have is a cheap $3 HF meter.
Got all the wires hooked up correctly according to the dwg. Turn the key and the ammeter moves left just a tad. Tractor fires right up and runs great. With the cheapo meter I'm showing 12.56 on the battery at high idle. Guess thats not charging. With lights one (3) shows 12.46 - May just sell it as is and let the new owner play with it. Just trying to get it in the best possible condition for a sale. I have no problem letting people know what needs attention.
I appreciate your help here but think I'm way over my head.

The meter might be just wrong. It is charging some or the lights would drag it down further. Jim

Thanks Jim,
I might just run it a bit each day and keep a check on the battery. Do appreciate all your help.

(quoted from post at 23:16:29 03/06/13) Thanks Jim,
I might just run it a bit each day and keep a check on the battery. Do appreciate all your help.

Click to expand...

Well I went out last night to start it up and the battery is dead. Not sure what I'll do. The genny had been tested and it was fine (took it to a alt/genny shop). Would you suggest just getting a new V-reg and start there?