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H starting problems...from A-Z....help

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
'45 H, pulled outta barn...hasn't ran in years and years, last owners said they had to pull start it...one valve was stuck, took head off and loosened it up and quadruple checked it. Getting spark with new condensor, rotor ect., timing has been checked 3 times, carb taken off and looks perfectly clean, no gas in it, clean as a whistle and blew out every orfice....no start still....tried pull starting it and only got what i thought was oil blowing out of the exhaust..smelled like gas, but was black speckles everywhere...plugs are drenched with gas...carb is adjusted to the books specs...oil from the air bath filter spits out the top too when i try to start it, correct weight of oil to the line on it also...i'm completely losing it on this, i know it's a simple fix, i just need more brains to help me on this...help please, thank you
 
Sat for years say to me the rings are sticking and you need to do a simple ATF treatment so as to loosen up the rings and get compression back up.
As for the gas the float could be hanging up or the needle is not seating as it should be.
Spark needs to be a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more.
All that said the problem most likely is low compression
 
i did a compression test on all the cylinders...from front to back...100,95,95...75ish-80...that was the cylinder that i had to do some valve work to....i was afraid you would say that old, your good with your IH's
 
Most of the old tractors be they Farmall or the others had sat for long times so I made it a point to do the ATF thing before even getting them off the trailer. Many I would load, pull the plugs and fill the cylinder with ATF put the plugs back in and then chain them down. Then after I get them home I say to heck with it and leave them sit till the next day. Sat a 12 volt battery on pull the plugs out and step back and watch the ATF fly. So far doing that has gotten most to start up and yes smoke for a few minutes but still run
 
is the firing order correct, 1342 is the order. no mension that you confermed it. also have you checked or even changed the oil bath air cleaner? have seen them frozen with water from the rain and that prevents starting. with that compression it will run. also with it blowing out the air cleaner, better make sure you have the valves adjusted properly. .017 hot, but set them to .019 cold for the first start. then when doing the head retorque you can set them to .017 after engine has been run.
 
I agree with Rustred. #1 is to the front of the engine. The spark plug wires go in the distributor (looking from the back toward the front of the tractor and thinking of a dial clock) #1 at the 1:30 position then at the 4:30 position #3 cylinder spark plug. Then #4 at the 7:30 position, then #2 at the 10:30 position.
If this does not work, the next step is to assure the #1 cylinder is at TDC.
Put your thumb in #1 plug hole. hand crank or use the fan to turn the engine till you feel compression pressure in the hole. Use a plastic straw to feel the top of the piston in the #1 cylinder. Continue turning the engine slowly by hand till the straw stops moving upward. That is very close to TDC. Look at the timing marks on the pulley and align them. Now the #1 plug wire should go in the location that the rotor points to. Jim.
 
I did everything, but would not start, day after day, I had the pooints about 1/4" open, my brother set them correctly and she fired right up. That's what I cannot do, set points.
 
It's got plenty of compression to run. The #4 cylinder will come back with some run time, and you'll probably see some increase across all four.

If you're blowing oil out the air intake, you're cranking the engine backwards somehow, or intake valves are sticking open.
 
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