C113 heads

Anonymous-0 · Jan 22, 2013

I was wondering if C113 heads are prone to warping? I have been having problems with getting headgaskets to seal right on my A and thinking maybe the head could be warped. It's has never overheated while I owned the A but who knows what with the previous owners.

Also I read their are different types of headgaskets for these motors, one type for non waterpump C113s and another type of headgaskets for C113s with waterpumps. Lastly I also heard they changed the torque values for the C113 heads due to a change in the design of the newer headgaskets?

old · Jan 22, 2013

I do not thing they are any more likely or less likely then others. Most any head can/warp if not torqued down correctly and been run hot etc. Also on those tractors I have never seen that problem but then I have one had around 5 of them. Have 2 heads laying around out in the shop right now. Also easy the check them and if warped the fix it have them milled

Red Dave · Jan 22, 2013

You can have a machine shop check it for flatness and plane it flat if it is off.

The later headgaskets get torqued to 80ft lbs, then get retorqued after the engine is run a bit to warm it up.

Use sealant on the head gasket too.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 22, 2013

I did use sealant but it seemed to make things worse. I replaced a head gasket on a high output Chevy 305 without sealant and that has been okay.

On the tractor, I did find one head stud was a different type than the others, so someone has taken the head off before me. Maybe they didn't torque it down right and warped it.

gene bender · Jan 22, 2013

All the heads ive had off for one reason or the other ive never seen any difference in them. I use Victor-Renz from Car Quest so where this opening thing comes in i dont know and some engines code dated thru 54 no difference in the opening of the water passage even the gaskets. There are differences in combustion chambers. But it wouldnt hurt to have yours resurfaced. I just use hi-temp Aluminium spray paint couple coats and torque to 80 and redo after warming up engine.

Red Dave · Jan 22, 2013

Well, I don't know about Chevy's, but I have done a good bit of work on IH C-113 Engines.

The last few gaskets I've used had it stamped right on the gasket; it said "Use Sealant and Retorque". I did both and they do not leak.

old · Jan 22, 2013

Did you torque it down to the new standard of 80ft/lbs?? As for checking it for being warped all you need it a carpenters square. As for the way you torque it you starter in the center and work your way out with an X sort of pattern. When you re-torque you do it the exact same way

rustred · Jan 22, 2013

a lot of auto gaskets have the sealant built right into the gasket.

CNKS · Jan 22, 2013

The C123 came with a standard water pump, the gasket was changed to give more flow. Water pumps were options on the 113, they were different from the C123 and did not use a different gasket.

Jim Becker · Jan 22, 2013

The gasket for the water pump had reduced passages, I presume to balance the flow at all 4 cylinders. It was used on the C-113.

I am not sure if this link will work.
http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr56559ar868662

Anonymous-0 · Jan 22, 2013

I used Permatex copper spray a gasket on my head gasket. However I noticed it is being washed off some of the exposed parts of the head gasket in the pushrod holes in the head. Also I have read a few bad reviews of the stuff after the replacement.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 22, 2013

My Chevy uses metal shim head gaskets, .015 compressed so pretty thin.

CNKS · Jan 23, 2013

I stand corrected--and my statement about the 123 gasket being modified to give more flow is wrong--the holes in the gasket are smaller and would give less flow without the water pump, the balance you stated is probably the reason for the smaller holes. I went brain dead for a while in my 1st post because a couple of years ago when I overhauled my SA with no water pump, the seller of the gasket set included a C123 gasket -- they replaced it when asked.

Tom Fleming · Jan 24, 2013

Simple thing to do is check the head with a machinist's rule or similar flat, straight edge. If you don't have one, have your local machine shop check it out for you. As Gene has suggested, have it re-surfaced if in doubt. it does not cost that much, and eliminates any question on warping. Also, having it magnafluxed is not a bad investment either.

If the head is NOT warped, install the following way.

1.) Block and head mating sufaces need to be clean, down to bright metal.
2.) coat both block and head with a LIGHT coating of the sealer of your choice, and both sides of the head gasket. LIGHT coat, just covering each surface. I prefer the Permatex Copper coat, but everyone has different opinions and preferences.
3.) install gasket and head. torque head down incrementally, using tightening sequence. As previously noted, the torque specs have been upped from 60 lbs. to 80 lbs.
4.) start engine. Bring up to operating temperature. Shut engine off, and while still warm, re-torque head.
5.) Enjoy your new, non-leaking head gasket.

Other's may have a different technique, but this works for me consistently......

C113 heads

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

old

Well-known Member

Red Dave

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

gene bender

Well-known Member

Red Dave

Well-known Member

old

Well-known Member

rustred

Well-known Member

CNKS

Well-known Member

Jim Becker

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

CNKS

Well-known Member

Tom Fleming

Well-known Member

Similar threads