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Super A antifreeze in oil

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Rebuilt 1950 SA about 15 years ago. [Did not replace sleeve o-rings]. Probably torqued head to 65ft-lb.Have read threads on subject. Will check compression before dropping the loader frame and removing pan. Will look for antifreeze around sleeves and let it sit. There is a very small amount of oil that seeps out at head gasket area, also. Change oil 2x/yr. Use about 100-150 hrs/yr. Good oil pressure. No smoking. Add very small amt of antifrezze once/yr. Any other suggestions before I dig into it??
 
check your head gasket one time I rebuilt an A didnt use any gasket maker on the head gasket and a month or so later had anti freeze in the pan
 
I did not use any sealer on gasket nor did I have anything done to the head. Thought I better check the sleeves because it is 63 years old and I don't thnk the o-rings on the sleeveshave ever been changed.
 
yea your probaly right the o rings could have passed on or maybe a crack in the sleeve I would take the head off first and take a look at gasket only takes about an hour getting the sleeves out takes a while
 
Those seals used on those sleeves are probably like a pair of shoes left out in the weather. You need to clean that block area where the seals are installed of any rust and crud. Coat the lip of the sleeves with dawn dish detergent so they will slide into the new seals easily. Hal
 
Your supposed to torque the head to 80 ft-lbs. It is not in the manual to do it, came out later.
I would replace the head gasket and torque evenly in 20 ft-lbs increments up to 80 ft-lbs. If that doesnt do the trick your out maybe $30 bucks.
 
If it turns out to be sleeve seals how do I remove the sleeve? Can I rent a sleeve puller? I am in a remote area with few resources and I unerstand removing the sleeve can be difficult. I don"t want to start beating on the sleeves with wooden blocks etc. I have good quality (IH NOS) rings installed about 15 yrs ago, so I guess I can hone cylinder sleeves before reinsurting the pistons. Sound OK?
Dean
 
Pull the sleeves as a last resort. Try replacing the head gasket. Its easy to do, and could be your problem.
Sleeves come out relatively easy. Have to remove pistons/rods and use a long oak piece of wood. Must be oak or hard wood. Tap on the bottom of the sleeve. It comes out easy....sorta.
 
If you've got oil coming out from between the head and block - to me that sounds like a bad head gasket any way you slice it. (outside of something like a cracked head/block).

You may have other problems too - but I'd say the gasket's a sure thing. Sure enough to make it worth changing anyways.

if oil can flow - water can flow even easier.

A good weekend project.
 
And one thing I'm wondering - you said you torqued to 65 - as others have said 80's the right spec.

But aside from that - did you ever re-torque the head after running it for a while?

If not I'd guess it's way too loose.

Either way - I'd put a new head gasket on.
 
I torqued to 65 about 15 years ago because that is the Repair Manual spec, however it seems that best practice is to 8o lbs. I think I may have retorqued it (don't remember-I don't seem to remember much of anything anymore) and if I did I am sure it was to 65-70lbs. I am going to remove oil pan first because I want to eliminate bad sleeve seals as the culprit. My mechanic has device for pressureizing radiator if necessary. Can't go much above couple pounds because radiator is original.. I don't want to change head gasket and then find I have bad sleeve seals and change head gasket 2nd time. Dean
 
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