studs on the left side r stuck in the block. whats the best method to remove them?

Lock two nuts together on the stud,if your favorite thread loosener doesn't work, then try heat. If that does't work, then you may have to grind it flush, redrill and tap it.

heat it n let it cool or attempt while hot?

If it's red hot, it may break too easily... if those nuts turn off too easy, you may have to weld a nut on to the end of it.

(quoted from post at 07:10:48 01/07/13) heat it n let it cool or attempt while hot?

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Wait for it to cool some. It breaks the rust bond. If you like stink spray them with penetrating oil as they cool. Sometimes it will creep into the threads because of the different rates of cooling. It may also cool the stud faster breaking the bond faster/better.

What worked for me was putting three pairs of self locking pliers on the stud and pulling/pushing on them simultaneously.
After a long soak with penetrating oil, that is...
Did not use heat or welding.

Double nut

Ive never tried it but some say heat well with a torch and then apply candle wax they say the wax will go down the threads. I would then let it cool to room temp and try a pipe wrench The double nuts wont do anything but pull threads as they need to be that tight so they wont just turn when trying to remove the stud.

(quoted from post at 07:43:16 01/07/13) What worked for me was putting three pairs of self locking pliers on the stud and pulling/pushing on them simultaneously.
After a long soak with penetrating oil, that is...
Did not use heat or welding.

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You think it will mess up the cast? I wouldn't heat the cast, but I wouldn't feel shy about heating the stud.

No, I'm not afraid of heat, although I will be more careful with heat on cast than on steel.
Would the multiple pliers not have helped, I would have applied heat, for sure!

Be real careful with those studs. The double nut worked on a couple of mine, vise grips worked on a couple more, and nothing worked on the ones you are talking about. I used every penetrating oil for days on end and nothing, i was afraid of heating the cast red in that area. Cutting, grinding, then re-tapping might work if your real good but take into account that it costs like $250 for a full set of head studs. I left the ones i couldn't get out in and the machine shop was able to everything they needed to do to it with them still attached. Be careful what every you do, and good luck! ~Anthony

Another desperation measure is to chill the bolt with liquid nitrogen (available from your welding supplier).

(quoted from post at 10:01:48 01/07/13) Be real careful with those studs. The double nut worked on a couple of mine, vise grips worked on a couple more, and nothing worked on the ones you are talking about. I used every penetrating oil for days on end and nothing, i was afraid of heating the cast red in that area. Cutting, grinding, then re-tapping might work if your real good but take into account that it costs like $250 for a full set of head studs. I left the ones i couldn't get out in and the machine shop was able to everything they needed to do to it with them still attached. Be careful what every you do, and good luck! ~Anthony

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How did they deck the block with the head studs in it?

pick up a stud removal tool. heres a few of mine. i used them to pull the studs on my super m.


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It didnt need to be decked, it was a distilate before I turned it into a gasser so I dont think it go hot enough to do any damage. Block was in remarkable shape, i got lucky.

(quoted from post at 15:46:05 01/07/13) It didnt need to be decked, it was a distilate before I turned it into a gasser so I dont think it go hot enough to do any damage. Block was in remarkable shape, i got lucky.

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How do you know it was square? I don't know of any man that can see .005" out of square on a deck, especially with the studs in the way of the straight edge.

(quoted from post at 17:52:15 01/07/13)

(quoted from post at 15:46:05 01/07/13) It didnt need to be decked, it was a distilate before I turned it into a gasser so I dont think it go hot enough to do any damage. Block was in remarkable shape, i got lucky.

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How do you know it was square? I don't know of any man that can see .005" out of square on a deck, especially with the studs in the way of the straight edge.

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Actually, you can see .002" or less if you look. If you need to prove it to yourself, take a good straight edge, lay it on a surface plate, and aim a flashlight towards the blade on the far side. You'll see the light if there's a gap. If you saw no light, put a piece of .002" shim stock on the one end. Then look again. You'll see the light over half of the distance of the blade, even on a 24" combination set blade. Furthermore, why would you worry about .005" anyway? Isn't that why you use coppercoat and a gasket? You set the valves individually. I could see sealing issues when the warpage is .010" or more, but .005" or less isn't enough for me to worry about. Besides, Unless the top deck is surface ground, it could be that far out of square, anyway. Then you'd have to grind the oil pan side, flip it, and grind the top deck. All while being very careful to keep things square to the bore of the main bearings and camshaft. (which really wouldn't matter, you're just talking about 2 gasketed surfaces anyway, the only reason they matter is for the engine's first machining, unless you re-bore the block to accept bigger sleeves or re-bore the main bearings or something like that.)

Enough rambling from me. -Andy

They ensured me that everything was square and true, It cost me a great deal of cash so if there is a problem and it traces back to that my machinist and I will have an unpleasent discussion, trust me.