PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
This 140 I picked up is stuck from sitting. I heard I can put penetrant oil in the cylinders and rock it back and forth in 4th. Gear. Ideas?
- Thread starter PretendFarmer
- Start date
Patience will be your friend on this project. First thing to do is
remove the head and see what kind of shape the tops of the
pistons and cylinder walls are in. This will tell you a great deal
about how big of a battle you are in for. If it appears lightly
stuck, I would put a mixture of ATF fluid and penetrating oil in
each cylinder and walk away for a week. Then block up the
rear of the tractor so the wheels are off the ground. Put it in
gear and begin trying to rock a wheel back and forth.
remove the head and see what kind of shape the tops of the
pistons and cylinder walls are in. This will tell you a great deal
about how big of a battle you are in for. If it appears lightly
stuck, I would put a mixture of ATF fluid and penetrating oil in
each cylinder and walk away for a week. Then block up the
rear of the tractor so the wheels are off the ground. Put it in
gear and begin trying to rock a wheel back and forth.
gene bender
Well-known Member
just remove the head. Then you can see the cycl walls and if they are rusty aint any snake oil going to help. If you do have a small mag type lite you can remove the plugs and see the walls easy that will tell you quick if removing the head and a teardown is the way to go. Headgaskets arent that much money and you can also see what condition the valves are.
Do as Gene suggested and pull the head. Those sleeves are wet sleeves and you can drive the pistons and rods out with the sleeves. Once you
get the sleeve and piston out use a torch to remove the piston. New sleeve kits are available here on this forum. I did this on a Farmall A in 1975 and I pulled the engine. Hal
get the sleeve and piston out use a torch to remove the piston. New sleeve kits are available here on this forum. I did this on a Farmall A in 1975 and I pulled the engine. Hal
John G. Hasler
Member
I know a guy (a professional mechanic) who got a big AC unstuck by towing it up to the top of a long hill, getting it rolling about 30mph, and popping the clutch. I wouldn"t recommend that, myself. I"d pull the head on any machine I acquired that was stuck. Of course, you still want to try to get it unstuck and a search of this site will find you lots of techniques: it comes up frequently.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
True dat
There are as many potions, concoctions, and techniques as there are guys here. None of them are guaranteed to free up every stuck engine.
Any/all of them will work with the head off. With the head off you can tell if you've got a fighting chance or if you've got the swamp from hell in there.
Any/all of them will work with the head off. With the head off you can tell if you've got a fighting chance or if you've got the swamp from hell in there.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Most of the tractors I deal with are stuck like that one. I use ATF. Fill the cylinders with ATF and put the plugs back in and let it sit a week. After a week set a 12 volt battery in and use short fast taps on the starter. Watch the crank pulley. If it moves any then pull the plugs out and keep trying. If it spins over after a bit you got it but beware the ATF will shoot out of the plug holes and make a mess but hey out of 20 plus only 2 or 3 did not free up for me and I used them on the place now
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
I will be using old's way. I filled up the cylinders with atf and penetrant oil. I could see inside the cylinders through the spark plug holes. No scoring what so ever. A tiny bit of rust in number one cylinder, but I mean a real little. I will try too free it up this way and go from there.
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
I will be using old's way. I filled up the cylinders with atf and penetrant oil. I could see inside the cylinders through the spark plug holes. No scoring what so ever. A tiny bit of rust in number one cylinder, but I mean a real little. I will try too free it up this way and go from there.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Also if it has the horizontal exhaust you can pour ATF into the exhaust till it starts to leak out of any holes in the system. Doing that helps free up any exhaust valves that maybe stuck which is something I do most of the time also
What little you can see from peaking through a spark plug hole will tell you nothing. If the piston is at the top of the stoke, you will see the top of the piston, but that is just about all you will see.
Also, I have encountered a few VERY stuck engines myself, and I have tried every method mentioned right here in this thread and NONE of them worked. Even after letting one one engine set and soak for better than one year, I still ended up taking the pistons out in pieces.
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
I fully realize that may end up happening. However i will try this method before I go to the next level. If I can't free it up in one week, its coming apart.
Pretend Farmer The method you described is a tried and true method that will work, Especially when time is of No Consequence! On any internal combustion engine that is going to set for a while before You get to it. Fill the cylinder with
with ATF and Acetone and let it set. There is nothing to loose, time is non your side here.
But You have the weekend to get something going then the Fire method is tried and true.
It works easiest if the engine is out and on a motor stand! But will work inframe style too!
+++++++++++++++++++
This way will get your tractor Unstuck in 1 afternoon......
1- remove all sheet-metal, fuel tank, radiator, any combustibles off the tractor and away from work area.
2- Remove head,Dist. cap and wires, pan, oil pump, Remove & # rod caps. Roll tractor outside of shop, and recheck to make sure there is nothing Flammable close by.
****- Usually when an engine is stuck there are 1 or 2 pistons stuck, but sometimes more depending on length of time the tractor sat up.
***Note...1 cylinder at a time!***
3- Start with the cylinder with the most volume!! fill with Dsl, add a splash of gas, Set that cylinder on fire(go drink a cup of Coffee or a coke) and let it burn itself out.
If the piston doesn't free up after the first fire,, Refire the cylinder as many times as needed. Then drive that piston out from the Bottom > up.
4- after previous piston is out move your attention the the next piston with next most volume....Repeat #3 as many times as necessary till that piston frees up and move on to the next cylinder. Repeat till all piston are out.
This method will usually save the piston and cylinder, at least to see if it is salvageable
If your tractor is a parade use then a few pits may be OK, and save you a bigger rebuild where a clean up and re-ballhone the cylinder may keep you going.
Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.
with ATF and Acetone and let it set. There is nothing to loose, time is non your side here.
But You have the weekend to get something going then the Fire method is tried and true.
It works easiest if the engine is out and on a motor stand! But will work inframe style too!
+++++++++++++++++++
This way will get your tractor Unstuck in 1 afternoon......
1- remove all sheet-metal, fuel tank, radiator, any combustibles off the tractor and away from work area.
2- Remove head,Dist. cap and wires, pan, oil pump, Remove & # rod caps. Roll tractor outside of shop, and recheck to make sure there is nothing Flammable close by.
****- Usually when an engine is stuck there are 1 or 2 pistons stuck, but sometimes more depending on length of time the tractor sat up.
***Note...1 cylinder at a time!***
3- Start with the cylinder with the most volume!! fill with Dsl, add a splash of gas, Set that cylinder on fire(go drink a cup of Coffee or a coke) and let it burn itself out.
If the piston doesn't free up after the first fire,, Refire the cylinder as many times as needed. Then drive that piston out from the Bottom > up.
4- after previous piston is out move your attention the the next piston with next most volume....Repeat #3 as many times as necessary till that piston frees up and move on to the next cylinder. Repeat till all piston are out.
This method will usually save the piston and cylinder, at least to see if it is salvageable
If your tractor is a parade use then a few pits may be OK, and save you a bigger rebuild where a clean up and re-ballhone the cylinder may keep you going.
Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I once had an old MM RTU that I did have to pull the head off of but that was also before I found out how good ATF worked. On the RTU I put a little gas on top of the oil I had put in and lit it up and let the get the engine good and warm and that worked but since finding out about ATF 10 plus years ago. Few have not freed up. My 1935 JD-B sat for at least 15 years locked up but filled with oil. When it came time to free it up I wicked out the oil filled with ATF and had it free in less then 48 hours.
John G. Hasler
Member
"...licenced mechanic..."
"Licensed"? I"m in rural Wisconsin, not New York City. Government here isn"t yet that oppressive.
"Licensed"? I"m in rural Wisconsin, not New York City. Government here isn"t yet that oppressive.
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
Don't know how that John Deere photo got there....not intentional ...really...
rustred
Well-known Member
yes,and i am adding i dont recommend it either.why wreck more stuff and most likely not getting the original problem fixed?
the only time oil soaking will free a stuck engine is if only the rings are lightly stuck to wall. if you can see any rust around piston top on cyl. that a teardown job. i have a w6 stuck from sitting in a barn and can not even see rust in the cyl's. i have the cyl's with oil in them for almost a year and 2 of then are not draining. and its not free either. this is my own experiment as everyone is gunghoe on soaking. i do know it has to come apart but its top priority .. so let it soak. i dont even fool around with soaking , cause why would i walk around a soaker looking at it when i can do the job correctly, and also have the unit running long before some concauction even has a chance of working.i like to see a nice crosshatch on the cyl's and clean not run the pistons in rust and carbon doing further damage, and running in rust pits.
ooh and this tractor also had the exhaust covered also. my experience with soaking is about 1 in 10 may come loose.
and also a little 140 engine is so easy to work on.
also never hear about engines freeing up on here either. have heard others come back and say, its pull apart time.
the only time oil soaking will free a stuck engine is if only the rings are lightly stuck to wall. if you can see any rust around piston top on cyl. that a teardown job. i have a w6 stuck from sitting in a barn and can not even see rust in the cyl's. i have the cyl's with oil in them for almost a year and 2 of then are not draining. and its not free either. this is my own experiment as everyone is gunghoe on soaking. i do know it has to come apart but its top priority .. so let it soak. i dont even fool around with soaking , cause why would i walk around a soaker looking at it when i can do the job correctly, and also have the unit running long before some concauction even has a chance of working.i like to see a nice crosshatch on the cyl's and clean not run the pistons in rust and carbon doing further damage, and running in rust pits.
ooh and this tractor also had the exhaust covered also. my experience with soaking is about 1 in 10 may come loose.
and also a little 140 engine is so easy to work on.
also never hear about engines freeing up on here either. have heard others come back and say, its pull apart time.
Believe it or not, I tried the fire method also. Didn't have any effect at all.
I guess it must come down to what part of the U.S. the stuck engine is in, or came from. Seems to be a big difference in what you southern boys are succesful with, and what probably won't work on the tractors from the more northern areas.
Too Far Gone
Member
If it isnt stuck bad,and theres not solid rust,You can fill cylinders with diesel,or your fav mix,roll on your trailer,chain loosely in gear and drive 100 mile trip.If its not stuck bad,it'll be loose when Ya get home.If it aint loose by then,tear it apart and save yourself a lot of time.Ive seen 3 come loose this way.
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
Well as of right now, here is an update: I poured ATF in all 4 cylinders with a crap load of WD-40. Fluid levels in 2 and 3 go down quite a bit, #4 went down a little and #1 didnt go down at all.
Time is not "of the essence" so, I will probably let that sit for at least a week and go through other stuff.
This picture here, what is this cap for? The cap that the red arrow is pointing to? My A doesnt have that.
Time is not "of the essence" so, I will probably let that sit for at least a week and go through other stuff.
This picture here, what is this cap for? The cap that the red arrow is pointing to? My A doesnt have that.
BTW, that is the oil fill. Notice there is no oil fill in the top of the hood.
Also, WD40 is NOT a penetrant. It will serve the same function as the Acetone though.
Yes, this is an old argument, but it is one that WD40 itself just ended: If WD40 were a penetrating oil, then why did the WD40 company just introduce a specific penetrating oil?
Also, WD40 is NOT a penetrant. It will serve the same function as the Acetone though.
Yes, this is an old argument, but it is one that WD40 itself just ended: If WD40 were a penetrating oil, then why did the WD40 company just introduce a specific penetrating oil?
PretendFarmer
Well-known Member
maybe I will pull the fluid out and add some really good penetrant to it today.
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