3rd hyd valve on 1066

Is it possible to add a third valve to a 1066. I need it for running a fert auger on a planter when filling. Can you just tap in someplace easy. I did that on my JD 2510 and worked great.

Jim on the IH's you need to go to a "power beyond" valve that stacks with the other remote valves as far as I know. If someone has a better plan I'd like to hear it. They don't give away the power beyond.


Rick

The power beyond is actually a plate that replaces the cover on the end of the valve stack on the 06 series tractors.

When IH came out with the 56 series, they did away with the end plate and made the cover part of the last valve in the stack. This continued through the 66 and most of the 86 series.

Not only do you have to buy the plate, but you also have to replace that valve body too. Then you have to buy a spool valve. So it's three times not cheap.

I don't know if this would work or not, but couldn't you put tees and shut off valves in the lines on one spool and use one spool for two things. If your setup is like I think you have to hook up hyd. lines to run the auger anyway.

Bob

http://www.vandminc.com/vmsite/vm/addav.html

Try this link. Way easier in my opinion. May not be as handy as a true 3rd valve, but I think this would work great.

If you use a diverter valve you can run the auger that way with only 2 valves. And since you are gone be off the tractor anyway, it would not be hard to do. Just put a tee in the return line for the planter, and the auger. Then plumb the pressure lines to the diverter valve just push one way for planter the other for auger.

Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll check out a wrecking yard.

Is there room for another lever on a 1066? I added a third valve to the valve stack on a 1086 and it's not all that bad of a job. Wall Lake Salvage, Wall Lake Ia has kits for the 1086 and I assume the 1066 is about the same except for the shape of the lever. The kit comes with a good used valve you add to the stack, longer bolts for the thicker stack you will have, a new lever, linkage, hoses to the back and outlets for the back along with a bracket for the outlets. Your outlets will be above the right side factory ones. You have to go to your local CIH dealer for the Orings and I recommend getting all of the Orings for the whole stack because the rings between the existing valves will be hard and brittle. It takes about 20 of them. To install it you'll want to slide the right wheel out as far as you can, blow or wash off the valve stack so it's very clean. Clean surroundings is important so no dirt falls down between the valve sections when you are re-assembling. Get a feed pail to sit on and get under there with a 9/16 end wrench, side cutter for cotter pins, I think a 1-1/4 end wrench for the big oil line, and I don't remember the rest but one look at it will explain it. I had to remove the other hyd levers to get them out of the way, and it was a good time to replace the worn bushings in those levers. If I remember right a 3/8 drive 1/2" socket on the end of a long extension will take them loose so you can pull them down. Be prepared to get a lap full of oil when you take it apart unless you're luckier than me. I sure would recommend doing it this way instead of using splitters. Once this valve is on the tractor it's always there and it's not in the way of anything. This way might also be a little cheaper, and it's not hard to do. Jim

Yes this can be done I added one on my 1206. I did this so I could use a grapple on my loader. You will need another middle valve block and lever. You will have to remanufacture your lever pivot tubes(for the 3rd lever added next to the seat).Need to do some clearance grinding on the left side seat mount casting and may not be able to use the original steel lines to your couplers(I used hoses).It is a snug fit getting everything out the back.Hope this helps.

The 86 series is a different set-up from the 66.