Super A Wheel Bolts

Putting together a set of wheels for my SA and found that Fastenal wants about $15 a bolt for grade 5, 5/8-11NC x 2.25". That"s $120 just for the bolts! What grade is required for the rim to wheel center bolts? The grade 2 are $2 each, but that sounds to soft to me. Thanks Jack

Funny you looked at the one place that charges an arm and leg for bolts etc. Go to most amy farm and home place and you can buy bolts for $2 a lbs and some times less. As for the rims to wheel centers I think my BA has grade 2 bolts holding all 3 of them on. Duals on the narrow side and one on the wide side

I thought that grade 2 was what I used as a shear bolt on the brush hog, so that seemed to soft. And these are supposed to be square head bolts which aren't that common so I'm still looking.

You sure dont need the hi-grade ones just any will work just fine. Ive been using the regular ones for 50yrs with no problems you only have 18 or so HP so you sure dont need hi-strength bolts i plow snow,tractor rides and plow gardens and cultivate and mow yd with all mine.

You sure dont need the hi-grade ones just any will work just fine. Ive been using the regular ones for 50yrs with no problems you only have 18 or so HP so you sure dont need hi-strength bolts i plow snow,tractor rides and plow gardens and cultivate and mow yd with all mine.

Dear Jack:
Here is some information and '''advice'''.
Yes the other responder is correct about the cost of bolts from particular suppliers.
Here is a note about bolts for IHC series A B BN C CUB, etc; I [[ AS a person who was trained in the machine tool trade years ago]] have just finished investigating the grade of bolts used by IHC on all their older tractors. Even the auto industry uses the same grade TO DAY. THEY ALL USE GRADE #2 ( COST $0.10 less then grade 5 that you can add up over say 1000 "vehicles) quite a cost !!
Any way to bring my off course chatter to a conclusion,
HERE IS what I made my decision on
/// BOLTS // I wanted to avoid as many lock washers as possible; using flat washers {so as not to damage a new paint job: some times double flat washers} bolts with nylon inserts, lock nuts with the same and blue semi permanent and red more permanent lock tight depending if it was to hold fenders or other parts that may at some time need disassembly. Also I wanted a better grade bolt that would not rust and leave stains and have good shear qualities [[ not that this is needed, since grade 2 was all that IHC used]] **** SO!!, I went to stainless steel with the above nylon locking inserts. THEY ARE EQUAL TO THE LOWER END OF THE GRADE 5 BOLT STRENGTH. COST ##### about 1 or 2 pennies, or less, over grade 5 FROM a fastener supply !!!! LOOKS:: IT WILL BE AMAZING WHEN I DO THE FINAL ASSEMBLY
!!! EVEN sand blast & PAINT UP EXCELLENTLY!!!! BY THE WAY the tapered wheel cap screws for the axel rear wheel "discs" will have to remain original IHC steel cap screw wheel bolts // no one makes them in stainless /// unless you know some one who has a machine shop and is willing to give you the work for nothing.
I am still painting and re assembling; but I assure you, you will like the out come of the project you are working on.// NOT shouting with large letters Just that My system will not let me underline or italicize.
Now after my ranting and raving I hope you had a wonderful Christmas. May you have a blessed New Year.
Wm.

Well this looks to be unanimous, grade 2 is OK. Good since that is cheaper. Is grade 2 the same as grade A307A? That is what is listed at the Fastenal website along with grades 5 & 8.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Jack

You can usually buy them as a set from places like OEM, S teiners, eBay, Farm Country, etc cheaper than Fastenal AND they will be the correct square head bolts.

I don"t like to use grade 2 bolts as shear pins. They are so ductile that they deform severely when failing and thus can be difficult to remove. They also have a less predictable failure point. Harder steel snaps off more cleanly and also at a more consistent load.

All the bolts get paint so no worry about rust. Any 9/16 nf will work on the centers without locks there but you do need locks on the center where it fastens to the rim. Use an impact as they can get play if not thightened good and recheck often. Many hear a clicking noise in the rear end and its just those bolts not being thight enough no rocket science involved.

Ya the old square head type are getting hard to find. I have been lucky that I have been able to reuse most of the old bolts so have not looked all that much

?? I bought new grade 5 bolts for the wheels on my Super A, they were sold by the pound, maybe 0.50/bolt, I don't know. They may not be 2.25 inches as it is hard to find bolts the exact length, depending on the diameter. If not I used 2.5 inch, they are cadmium plated, work and look fine. Regardless of what IH did, I do not use grade 2 bolts on much of anything, I prefer grade 5 unless grade 8 is required.

I forgot about the square head--I don't buy those, nothing wrong with hex head. I will use the square head if the old ones are still good, usually they aren't.

I'm going to try a local hardware distributor Wednesday to see what their prices are like for the grade 5 and 2.

CNKS, the hex head bolts don't turn inside the square recess on the rims?

Been a couple of years and I don't remember--if they did I probably used screw driver or something to keep them from turning.

(quoted from post at 18:46:18 01/01/13) Been a couple of years and I don't remember--if they did I probably used screw driver or something to keep them from turning.

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I know on the big tractors some do and some don't. Never played with an SA, but I would guess it would be similar.