Farmall B valve issue

1947 B, 12v conversion. I solved the spark issue yesterday and the carb has been done. Battery fully charged, static timing set. Scratching my head over why it won't start when I got the idea I had not pulled the valve cover and checked clearances. Found two push rods loose on two different cylinders. Got them back in place but when I rotated the engine the third from the rear valve went down and did not come back up. Gentle persuasion in a couple forms failed to get it to pop back up. SO....looking for some advice.

This is deeper into the engine than I have gone in the past but I am game if that is what it takes. Is there any hope of unsticking the valve without pulling the head?

If I pull the head it looks like the rocker assembly comes off with three nuts, then there is the coolant connection on the front and the manifold(s) on the side followed by (5) large nuts down the center of the cylinder head. I apologize but apparently I never found a parts manual for this tractor so I am going by what I see. Not sure what makes a valve stick but I'm not thinking there is anything terrible wrong here...hopefully. All guidance, suggestions, and commentary appreciated.

My 300 had a stuck engine and a sticky exhaust valve when I got it, and I loosened up the valve well enough so that it popped back up after I hit it with a mallet. When I put it on the tractor the rocker arm pushed it down further than I had been with the mallet and it stuck again. I had just put a new head gasket in the tractor and did not want to pull the head and have to buy another gasket, so I was worried. I was able to pop the valve back up by using a flat pry bar on the underside of the valve spring retainer disk or whatever the big flat thing on top of the spring is called. I pried gently and I do not know if this was a good idea or not but it worked for me. Then I squirted ATF on the stem and turned the engine again, popped the valve up again and repeated for a while till it got so it didn't stick anymore. I put it together and have put probably 30 or 40 hours on it since then with no problems from the valves.
Zach

I would remove the rocker assy then spray the bad valve with some penetrant and gently tap it and you mite just get it to stop sticking. You can use a block of wood and a screwdriver to get it to come back up sometimes and a little tapping and spraying ect and you should get it to work.. When you get the valvesl free again replace the tappet assy and start engine you will probably need to change plugs around to get them clean and firing again. I bought on e was like yours took a while but now it starts and runs great sure smoked till the bad cycls got cleaned and firing good.

Exhaust or intake valve??? If exhaust pour some ATF in the manifold and let it sit a few hours. Then take a pair of vise grips and grab the end of the valve and try to turn it a little bit. Some times that is all it takes to free one up BTDT many times. Also try to get some ATF inside the spring and on the stem so it will maybe work it way down from the top and if an intake that is about the only way to get ATF to it short of pulling the manifold off

i have went in through the spark plug hole on some engines with a screw driver or such tool that works and just push the ornary valves back up. lots of lube and keep tapping back and forth. eventually you will get them freed up.

Just adding a bit more. You can also almost fill that cylinder with ATF then slowly turn to engine over o as to force the ATF up and around the valve which will help clean and free it up

I have had intake valves stick due to old gas.
Once I get them freed up using suggestions below I add Marvel Mystery oil to the gas. ATF should work just as good and be less expensive but I use MMO to keep them from sticking again.

Well, that's some darned good advice today and I put it all together and already have it unstuck. It pushed down so easy with the rocker last night that it made sense it would come up if I was firm enough so after soaking it as recommended by pretty much everyone I pried it up, resoaked it and ran it back and forth until it started responding to the spring. Many thanks!!! I might actually drive it out of the shop before long.

Great you will need to clean that plug as the stuff in that cycl need to get hot and burn up so by changing plugs with other sysle you will get it running good. It mite take a little time but it will turn out OK.

Thanks Gene! I can see a fair amount of crud in there. Going to set those valves today and hoping to hear it run again later today.

You will have some fun till the crud gets burned out and fouls the plug a fes times. I had one that 2 pushrods were out of the tappet contac. Now after changing and moving plugs around it runs great and starts wonderful just hard to realize what people can do or let things get it such shape. Sort of cool for a drive but thats the best way to get it warm and cleaned out. have fun i assume you have set the tappet clearence on all cycls.