how do you adjust the float? do you bend the tab on the hinge? (Thats what I have been doing) or, The hanger has a hole on the far side, and a hole with a vertical slot on the near side, do I do something with that, the directions in the carb kit were vauge. Is there a measurement when the float is completly open because the 1 5/16" from the top of the cast to the bottem of the floatis there everytime I close the float, I dont see why anyone would need to adjust it. thanks Jim (or anyone else that can help). ~Anthony
- Thread starter BigTone
- Start date
BOB HAWBECKER
Member
does your float look like this?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Floats have two adjustments. One is the "level" it adjusts the level of fuel in the bowl when the carb is full, and shuts off the flow. this acts like a toilet tank float and when in continuous operation running the tractor, is just part way open allowing just enough fuel in to support the flow into the jets and idle ports.
It is the distance from the float to the carb body. (usually measured with the carb upside down, or with finger pressure and good "feel" with it on the tractor. The second is float drop. most carbs have this adjustment. It stops the float from dangling too far when the fuel stops coming in (out of gas), or the valve is shut off. The purpose is to prevent the float pontoons from touching the bowl (ever). if they touch, they can stick and prevent control, or just wear and eventually get a hole that sinks them. The pontoons must also be adjusted some times to assure they do not scrape on the sides.
Jim
It is the distance from the float to the carb body. (usually measured with the carb upside down, or with finger pressure and good "feel" with it on the tractor. The second is float drop. most carbs have this adjustment. It stops the float from dangling too far when the fuel stops coming in (out of gas), or the valve is shut off. The purpose is to prevent the float pontoons from touching the bowl (ever). if they touch, they can stick and prevent control, or just wear and eventually get a hole that sinks them. The pontoons must also be adjusted some times to assure they do not scrape on the sides.
Jim
Two measurements are 1 5/16th with carb upside down, measured from what is now top of float to the carburetor without gasket. Other is 1 15/16th float drop measured to lowest point of float when turning carb back right side up. The drop is easy to adjust with that little tab on float. Height can be real tricky. I have bent hundreds of those M floats over the years by getting a pliar in the right position so you do not damage float. This is tricky and has to be done with care and diligence. Ideally, if you could find thinner or thicker gasket under needle and seat works the best. Now, keep in mind , that float has to not touch sides of carburetor. Also, the hinge pin has to fit tight in bracket. You bend the split in bracket before inserting pin,use a small screwdriver in that slot when installing pin so pin will slip in but be tight when in place. It sounds to me like you have a needle sticking in the seat. May have to polish edges a little so it moves freely. Needle should drop down with out any persuasion when you invert carburetor back and forth.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I have mentioned many, many times in many different topics posted by many different folks how to cure that sticking needle issue, and NO, it does NOT need to be polished, or tapped on to seat it. Doing either of those tricks will only cause you to go out and buy another needle and seat.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
What you accomplished by polishing the needle was to remove the residue left over from the manufacturing process. A generous dose of carb cleaner will do the same thing.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I've installed a BUNCH of new needles and seats in the last few years. A BUNCH. I've never encountered any rough edges on any of them.
I haven't discovered many over the last 55 years
either but it does happen. Just another of those
things you look for when having problems and carb
cleaner in a spray can wasn't even thought of when
I started working on the M carbs. Fact is , didn't
even have the viton tipped needle until in about
1960 for t hose carbs. IH started using them when we
could not keep the 560's from dripping with steel.
either but it does happen. Just another of those
things you look for when having problems and carb
cleaner in a spray can wasn't even thought of when
I started working on the M carbs. Fact is , didn't
even have the viton tipped needle until in about
1960 for t hose carbs. IH started using them when we
could not keep the 560's from dripping with steel.
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