Farmall M back firing

Keith Allen

New User
I have a Farmall M , now this tractor starts , but heres the issue.
It BACKFIRES , It back fires through the carb, and through the exhaust. AND when you pull off # 2 and # 3 plug wires, one at a time it wont even effect the motors idling, like #1 and #4 will.
Here's what i've done
1 replaced the plugs as per a local IH Mechanic
2 All new plug wires
3 Checked the timing a million times
4 Tried 2 different carbs, one of which was rebuilt
5 Replaced the condenser, points look new
6 Checked for manifold leaks , there are none

At this point i'm stumped , actually frustrated, ANY help now would really be appreciated
 

Pull the valve cover and have a look at the valves. Check the clearance, and make sure none of them are stuck. You may even need to remove the head and take a look. Might have a valve or two that is burnt, or maybe just a heavy carbon, soot build up that is preventing those valves from closing.
 
First look for a carbon track in the distributor cap and then also, I'd give it a compression test on cyls 2 and 3.

Allan
 
thanks so far fro the replys, I checked compression 110 on all cylinders, and they hold steady for up to 3 mins so im taking no leaks.
I gaps the lifters at .017 , they were about 050 or so at first.
I have triple checked the wires to make sure they were on right and had my work double checked . the lift rod were all free moving . With out removing the head, I don't know about soot or dirt build up , I'm really not wanting to remove the head. BUT!!!!
thanks again , keep te ideas coming
Keith
 
I would try switching the two plug wires also. I did the exact thing on my B. It started and ran but sounded like a "green" motor. Ground each wire and 2-3 didn't make a difference on how it ran. Switched them and she smoothed right out. I swore I had them hooked up right! If it doesn't work, it was something quick and simple to try.
 
(quoted from post at 12:03:05 10/19/12) thanks so far fro the replys, I checked compression 110 on all cylinders, and they hold steady for up to 3 mins so im taking no leaks.
I gaps the lifters at .017 , they were about 050 or so at first.
I have triple checked the wires to make sure they were on right and had my work double checked . the lift rod were all free moving . With out removing the head, I don't know about soot or dirt build up , I'm really not wanting to remove the head. BUT!!!!
thanks again , keep te ideas coming
Keith

If you've got 110# compression on all cylinders, there is no need to worry about soot and carbon buildup, and while just about any engine out there can usually benefit from a fresh valve job, in your case, I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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