i would like to know what is wrong with my framall 300 ever time i go to use it i have to jump it and i would like to know if i had to get a new alterator or regulator?

A 300 doesn't have an alternator unless someone added it at a later date. You need to give us more information, like what do you mean by not starting? Does it not turn over? If this is still the original 6 volt system that has been corrupted? By this I mean 6 volt systems require larger battery cables than 12V systems, sometimes folks think they're doing good when they replace the cables with the smaller cables used for 12Volt. Also your tractor is 50 years old 6 volt systems are not as forgiving as 12 volt so all the connections from battery to frame and between the battery and the starter need to be shiny clean. Could also be your battery is bad or weak, the starter going bad. Clean all the electrical connections on the starting circuit and make sure they are the bigger cable for 6 volt. Check your battery voltage and then do a starter draw test, this amount to putting a meter on the starting circuit when you try to start it, in measures the battery voltage and the starter draw, if the starter draw is greater than the battery capacity then you'll have to get the starter fixed. Also the older tractors need to be regularly tuned if not they get hard to start. You might have to find someone with gray hair and whiskers to deal with the ignition points.

There are many questions we need to ask.
Is an alternator?
IS it 12 volt?
Is the battery good?
Are connections tite?
Does the amp gauge work?
When did this start happening?
The answers to these will help.
Jim
Charging system analysis John T

it is a alternator it is 12v the battery is new just got it last year in the summer connections are tight and have a little crosin on them it statred to happen this june i think?
the amp gauge does work sits on 0 and moves a little bit

How long between uses and are you leaving the battery connected?
If I leave the battery on my Super M connected overnight it'll go flat. I know theres probably an easy to correct problem in there but disconnecting the battery when I'm done using it has become second nature. If you're using the tractor infrequently and absolutely require keeping the battery connected they make little solar panels specifically for this kind of thing.

There are various alternators that can (and have been adapted to Tractor use. Giving generic repair informtion doesn"t work. If it has an external voltage regulator, and says Delco on it or the regulator, It is likely a delcotron. If it has an internal voltage regulator, or isn"t Delco, we need a picture. The cheapest and most reliable solution (if it is not a 10SI series Delco internally regulated Alt, is to put one on it. A Hitachi Alternator from a 1986 Nissan PU. is a good fit and smaller than the Delco.
w.external_link/ (Carter and Gruendwald) also provides diagrams for later tractors. The Hitachi wires the same as the Delco. The L terminal = terminal 1 on the delco. The S terminal = #2. My recommendation is to go with the diode suggested in the Bob M diagrams. Jim

There is a meter on the dashboard labeled "D C" or "AMPS" or "AMMETER" or something like that.

The needle should move to the left when you turn the key on, then back to the right when the tractor starts and runs.

If the needle is staying to the left, then your system is not charging the battery. That would be why it's dead each time you go to start it up.

That is just one of many things that could be wrong. Your problem could be something as simple as a bad ground or dirty battery connections.