Pulling front bolster on M

markalayne · Oct 16, 2012

My previous post back in July was broken camshaft gear, Super M crankshaft timing.) I was told on here that I most likely have a broken camshaft gear.I pulled the valve cover, no movement of valve train at all. I am trying to pull the bolster. Tractor's supported, wheels off the ground. I have engine hoist on the bolster. I have the 8 bolts out of the frame rail, the 4 bolts off the lower steering assembly where it connects to the frame rails. Hoses cut from radiator. It won't budge. What am I missing? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Janicholson · Oct 16, 2012

The upper radiator support rod must be removed. The steering shaft must be removed from the center support (by the gauges). The frame rails may be radically rused to the bolster use a chisel or screw driver to assure they are loose.
Jim

Hayfarmer · Oct 16, 2012

You didn't mention removing steering shaft, when I did mine I left it with bolster. Frame rails tend to hold on sometimes, might have to loosten rear bolts

David G · Oct 16, 2012

I had to block the engine up and loosen the frame rails, they were rusted tight to the bolster. I then took them off one at a time to clean up and paint.

markalayne · Oct 16, 2012

Thanks I got it off. Just took a lot of persuasion. My next question is about the threads on the crankshaft and the camshaft. Are these left hand threads? Lefty loosey

glennster · Oct 16, 2012

standard threads, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

markalayne · Oct 16, 2012

Thank you sir!
And away we go again.

markalayne · Oct 16, 2012

I guess I have one more question before I pull the crank pulley. How do I get the #1 cylinder at TDC? with my valve train out of time. I have the crank notch lined up at the pointer and compression at no. 1 But . . .

John 37A · Oct 16, 2012

Won't matter if you pull the camshaft out. You can set tdc at either stroke since the cam controls that.

markalayne · Oct 16, 2012

Hopefully not pulling the camshaft, just replacing the gear. I guess once I get in behind the cover it will become more apparent.

Janicholson · Oct 16, 2012

The cam to gear is keyed, no issue there, the marks are clear for the distributor drive and the crank gear, all very direct, Jim

mkirsch · Oct 17, 2012

Don't worry about putting the engine at TDC now. You will be able to see the timing marks on the crank, cam, and distributor drive gears, and get them all lined up, with the front cover removed.

markalayne · Oct 17, 2012

Thanks Jim.
This is the first time I have gotten this far into a repair of this sort. Seems most things are "pretty direct" with this old iron. It is quite enjoyable being able to do some of this stuff myself, albeit with a lot of help from you and others, unlike today's cars etc. I do appreciate you and the others. Mark

markalayne · Oct 19, 2012

Finally discovered the problem with my M. The cam gear nut backed off. Cam key way wallowed out. Teeth on gear half gone. I guess the geared moved forward to a point where it started to rub against cover and then broke off the forward half of the teeth. Question today is: The cam has about 1/4 inch "run out"? I can move it in and out with my hand. Normal? Seems excessive to me. Valve train movement seems normal so I believe cam is not broken. Will check more thoroughly later.

Pulling front bolster on M

markalayne

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Janicholson

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Hayfarmer

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David G

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markalayne

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glennster

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markalayne

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markalayne

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John 37A

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