MSC has them as do most all tool suppliers, but once to you see how much they cost, you may try to find them at auction, or used at a pawn shop.
 
(quoted from post at 07:46:06 10/16/12) Looking for a source for pipe taps, 1 1/4" thru at least 2" for re threading ex manifolds.

Northern tools has a set of three, or at least they used to 'cause that's where I got mine. They are probably NOT the best quality, but they'll get the job done.
 
When i wa working on my SMTA threads in exhaust maniforld were bad. I took a short piece of pipe, with threads and made 4 cuts perpendicular to threads on it. Threaded it ionto manifold and turned it in, then back out getting a little more depth each time. Not as good as a pipe tap but cheaper and easier to find less likely to crack manifolr if you get oover zealous with it
 
Gotta think that some iron oxides are harder than tool steel, particularly if they are made in China. There are four different oxides depending on the number of oxygen atoms in the rust molecule. That condition will dull the tap. I would get a used tap on eBay for $10-$20 bucks and sharpen the flutes if or as necessary. There should be plenty of used taps up for auction.

You will probably need a four foot cheater bar on your pipe wrench. Leave the manifold bolted to the tractor and vacuum out the chips.

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I took my manifold to a plumber and had the threads cleaned up. He charged me $10 and I didn't even have to break a sweat.
 
I'm with you Wardner. When I see posters getting them cleaned up with a tap I always think they got lucky or never ran into a tuff one, or I don't know how to use one.
On the bad ones if I can see the thread outlines I have better luck with a thin cutting blade in a dremel tool. Its a slow dirty job that way though.
 
I have greenfield taps and I will not put them in a rusty manifold. Iron Oxide is incredibly hard. I always remove the manifold and sand blast out all the threads and then re-thread it.
 
A lot of us don't want to deal with removing the manifold because knowing my luck, at least two of the studs would twist off in the head, and then a job that should take 15 minutes will end up taking days.

Besides I don't know anyone with a blast cabinet, and the professionals around here either want the same amount to blast the manifold as a whole car frame, or they don't want to bother with my small job.
 

Wardner has it right. Leave the manifold on the tractor. The first time I attempted rethreading a manifold, I had it off the tractor and secured in my heavy duty bench vise. The vise did its job, but I actually moved the whole work bench and still hadn't quite begun cutting new threads, so I put the manifold back on the tractor.

Another trick I have learned is to fire up the cutting torch, stick it down inside the manifold and burn away some of that carbon. I've even given it a quick blast from the oxygen to help blow away some of the carbon.
 

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