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Fluid Change

K

KTNC

Member
I am getting ready to change all fluids in my just purchased M...
1. Plan on using 10W30 for motor. Where can filter be purchased? And any dino oil ok? I assume no synthethic?
2. Any 90W oil for rear? Should this be flushed too, if so, how? What do you use to remove plug for adding fluid?
3. Coolant?

Thanks
 
Well since there is only 3 or 4 places that make oil your pretty safe with any motor oil. As a matter of fact O'Reilly's auto part store oil is Valvoline and so is the oil you buy at Wal-Mart. As for the rear end when I changed it in the M I have I use the newer 85W-140
 
1. filter, NAPA or CIH. Be aware that there are two sizes. Besure to get the correct one.

2. Plug on top of transmission can be removed with a 3/4 rachet or breaker bar. Don't forget the steering box hidden up under the grille. Use 90 wt if it doesn't leak, corn head grease if it does.

3. 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water. distilled H2O is best.
 
My only caution is removing those drainp lugs. There"s likely some little bit of water inside the transmissin, and it sinks to the bottom, and might rust the plugsin place. I rounded off the plugs quick on mine, and spent a lot of time messing with it, welding nuts on, twisting themoff. I recommend you get one good grip on thise drain plugs, and do NOT round them off.
 
Tip: If the transmission is full there's 13+ gallons of dirty oil that's gonna drain out when you pull the plug! So before you start have at least three empty 5 gallon buckets immediately at hand.

I've never bothered to flush out a rear end. However some people recommend dumping in about 10 gallons of diesel or kerosene. Then drive the tractor gently (no load) for a few minutes to circulate the diesel/kero.
 
as far as the rear end grease, any 80-90 wt will work fine. even the 80-140 wont hurt either. it holds about 14 gallons. it can hold also several gallons of water too. have about 4 or 5 empty 5 gallon buckets handy for draining. if you want to do a little flushing in advance, add 2 gallons of kerosene to the rear end, then toodle around for a couple days to loosen all the gook up. pull the rear plug first, be careful not to drop it, (dont ask) if nothing comes out, probe with a wire or screwdriver to break up the goo. let it drain out, then pull the second plug under the tractor, forward of the rear plug.
 
So it's ok to use synthetic in the motor, I use Mobil 1 in all my other vehicles, just like it...
 
That is the one oil I would not use due to the fact the synthetic some times do not mix well with old parts and old oil deposits but any of the normal oils would be fine unless you rebuild the engine and then start with the syn stuff
 
Did you get an operators manual with it? If not be sure and get one right away. Lots to learn about your new baby.
 
Something I discovered, about a dropped plug, is work it to the side and then up with a good magnet. Gets "er right out.
 
I'd stAy away from the synthetics as they tend to be thinner oil for a specific weight

Newer engins designed for it it's great. Old loose engine and the film just isn't Thick enough and you could spin a Bering

Look out with detergent oil as all the crap it cleans goes in circulation to. You got it the bearings

I'd stick to what was used unless your going to give it an overhaul
 
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