Drove my FIL's 1941 "H" on a drive with 16 other tractors in the hills of Southeastern Ohio yesterday. Good running old tractor but I got left behind on the hillbecause I had to downshift to 4th gear oon some of the hills and the other tractors didn't. I'm thinking about buying it from him. Is there anything I can do to get it to pull the hills better?
 
Mine will go up any hills around here with 12.4 tires on it. I would do a good tune up. Did it sputter, or just lug down?
 
You may need to open the main jet adjusting screw
as this will enrich the fuel mixture. Even my old B&S engines have this feature. Hal
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On the older H & M's when the rpms went down so did the power. In 5th gear that is. We used to hall hay with my uncles H and our WC Allis. The WC pulled it in road gear (4th) without shifting and the H pulled it in 4th. Sometimes on the leveler roads it pulled okay. Was a couple mph faster than the WC but lost the advantage on the hills.
 
The H is not a great hill climber in 5th. Also does not hold a load back very well.One fall I hauled ear corn with an H and a 300 U the 300 would pull a load over the same hills in 5th thsat the H had to downshift without a wagon, The H had the all fuel engine and was burning gas.
 
I wouldn't compare a M to a H in 5th gear. Think a good running M would pull a H behind it and still pull more hills in 5th than a lot of H tractors.
Original poster a 9 speed transmission works pretty good for that use. Drop to 4th in high range and still go around 12 MPH.
 
I have an H that I used to have 14.9 38 tires on and it is a kerosene engine with flat top pistons. It would go up most hills around here in 5th with no load. I used to take it up a big hill with an empty 8x16 double axle wagon and I would have to downshift halfway up. I really like the TA on my 300 since it lets me go in and out of 5th direct more easily and even when I pull it back going uphill it will still go 10 or 12.
Zach
 
I would upsize the bore and put in fire crater pistons if you are redoing it. It may have the all fuel pistons in it and be low compression. Mine is quite spunky, but have not had head off so I do not know what is inside.
 
May be as simple as a governor overhaul. May be as difficult as having the low compression fuel head and flat head pistons. Lots of difference between a factory gasoline engine and factory fuel engine for horsepower. Then come thin wall sleeves to increase cubic inches to add more power.
 
You must have been going awful slow cause even at half throttle it will pull hills empty. When in a ride dont follow so close so you cant speed up a little when going up a hill. Theres nothing wrong with the tractor but in road gear going slower then 7-8 mph up a hill in high could be a problem.
 
(quoted from post at 16:40:27 10/14/12) Drove my FIL's 1941 "H" on a drive with 16 other tractors in the hills of Southeastern Ohio yesterday. Good running old tractor but I got left behind on the hillbecause I had to downshift to 4th gear oon some of the hills and the other tractors didn't. I'm thinking about buying it from him. Is there anything I can do to get it to pull the hills better?

Ignition timing is retarded. Find someone who is familiar enough with the old Farmalls who knows how to set the timing by ear.
 
Tires won't make much difference but the pistons will. A big caution, though; since the tractor is 71 years old it may already have the larger bore sleeve and piston set and the step head pistons.

You need to figure out what you already have there first. Like the others suggested, a good tune up can make lots of difference. Set the valves, adjust the ignition timing, and clean and adjust the carburetor before spending lots of money.
 
My FIL says it's a fuel engine. In addition to the fuel tank, it has the small tank for gasoline used for starting it. He says the motor is all original, never overhauled. Any idea what it would cost to hve someone increase the bore and put in the fire crater pistons?
 
Bill, first I'd do a complete tune up. Get you parts for that from some place like NAPA or O'Riley's and buy the premium line of parts. That tune up should include a carb adjustment. Then see what it will do. May be all you need. Getting someone to do the engine for you is going to be spendy to get it done right.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 05:03:51 10/16/12) Bill, first I'd do a complete tune up. Get you parts for that from some place like NAPA or O'Riley's and buy the premium line of parts. That tune up should include a carb adjustment. Then see what it will do. May be all you need. Getting someone to do the engine for you is going to be spendy to get it done right.

Rick

And make sure the tune up includes copper core plug wires.
 

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