Farmall 200 and FH Cycle mower adjustment

Dean Olson · Oct 14, 2012

I have the manual specifically for this cycle mower. I have it working perfectly. BUT

I don't understand how to get it to lift higher. I threw a red rag down as a reference point. When the bar is lifted I only have about 2" clearance from the ground.

I had to put the mower on my 200 with 12.4"x36" tire so I could even get that much clearance. I'd rather use my SC but with it's 11.2X36" tire it won't lift off the ground at all.

Is this how it's supposed to be?

If not how do you adjust for more clearance?

Mark Peters · Oct 14, 2012

Dean, One thing I noticed , it might be an optical illusion,but is your hitch locked so it can`t sway back and forth ? Looks like it is swung over to the right . According to the manual it should be locked rigid. Don`t know if that would affect your problem. The other thing I can think of is maybe you need to take a link out of the rod that goes up to the left touch control arm ? At least worth a try. I`m assuming you have the leveling bellcrank in the locked position on the left side of tractor under the operator platform.

Pete76NY · Oct 14, 2012

Dean, I found that on our Super C I got more adjustment by NOT having the leveling bellcrank in the level position...was able to use the front rock shaft to lift more via the rod. The next thing I discovered (and this was a BIG surprice as prior to experience with this mower any FH implement I have ever used seemed handier to use than any other mounting system I have ever used) was just how nice and handy our JD #5 mower really was! Both FH mowers went down the road quickly! Pete

LMack · Oct 14, 2012

I believe the axel clamp is supposed to be on the inside notch not the outside. It is not going to raise very high with the front rock shaft control. Since it is a pitman mower the cutter bar can't be raised during operation. The pitman would break if the cutting bar was rotated up toward the vertical position. The mower is to be raised and lowered as a unit using the main lift. The drop rod on the right axel is to allow the mower to raise but limit the depth it will drop when in the lowered position. Looks like you have locked the sway set (pins) way over to the right. That is never correct. To my knowledge you only remove those pins for plowing or cultivating with a colter guided rear cultivator. The pins have to be locked in the vertical position as others have said. Both the front to rear level on the right and the draft level on the left must be in the lock down position not hooked to the front rock shafts.

Dean Olson · Oct 14, 2012

I agree, I absolutely love the FH system for being able to back in and hook and unhook from the seat.

This thing works really well ONCE its hooked up.

I've thought about redesigning it so it's solid with the with the fast hitch, but don't want to start cobbling on it.

Jim Becker · Oct 14, 2012

A picture of the left side of the mower and the left end of the Touch-Control rockshaft when the mower is raised might be helpful. I agree with Mark that the Fast-Hitch should be pinned at the center, not allowed to go to the right.

Looks to me like the lift arm is not in the normal fully raised position (same line Mark is heading down).

wolfman · Oct 14, 2012

Looks like your sway arms are to the right-which is actually good. Mine, due to wear & tear and slop, lean to the left just a tad even tho pinned. This left lean tilts my mower the wrong way both for lift and for tip-of-the-cutterbar lead. Looks like you want to concentrate on the actual lift arm (behind right tire in pic). Mine is higher when rock shaft pulls long rod forward, a good bit higher. I have found it helps to put a light chain from left side of mower frame to right axle of tractor

Farmall 200 and FH Cycle mower adjustment

Dean Olson

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Mark Peters

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Pete76NY

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LMack

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Dean Olson

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Jim Becker

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wolfman

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