Turbo Charged Super M problems

I have a question in regards to what I believe is a Keystone kit on my Grandfathers Super M. He had the kit installed as a novelty for running up and down the road. He doesn't pull it or work it from what I understand. He has blown the motor 2 times and after the 2nd time, he had the best engine guy in the area rebuild it to the tune of 5K. After the rebuild he gave the tractor away. I asked him how it was doing with its new owner and he told me the engine builder broke it in on the dyno and said all was well. After the break in it started blowing white smoke and hitting on only 2 cylinders on a road trip. My Grandfather doesn't have a computer and asked me to call the manufacturer and ask their thoughts. I haven't called them as I know very little about the whole tractor. I thought maybe some of you might know what could be causing this. I am in no way bashing Keystone as I have never heard anything bad about their product or talked to them.

Thanks,
Dan

as i see it (10 your tryen to make more pony power then the bottom end will hold (2) no waste gate (3) tryen to push compressed air thru the carb . (4) no means of retarding ing. timing . All above not good. Way back many moons ago we did a lot of playen with installing hair dryers on gas engines , and the best of them was a wild built oliver 1650 gasser that was built just to pull . Well we did all we could do with a carb . Then one day while we were drinking things over ( vary bad when i am drinking and thinking and building and engine ) We had this brain fart that OH why don't we add a hair dryer and add a Holley 735 CFM carb off a 428 S/CJ Ford but lets run this on AL KI HOL We have the knowledge we have the pieces and parts to make this work. YEP we did and yes it did make it go BUT we started making lots of SPARE parts. First to go was the head as she almost set the head into orbit as it stretched the head bolts a 1/2 inch. OK we can put in heavier head studs. DID that , next run out she held the head BUT put the crank on the ground thru the oil pan with Flywheel still on . Ok so build a girdle that will hold the crank in , then lifted the head , tis time when the head came off it really came off . Need bigger head studs . Then she leaned out one hot night and the carb and turbo blew off it and when it let go pieces and parts flew hundreds of feet and there was a huge fire ball. Maybe IF they had a waiste gate set for maybe 4-7 LBS of boost it may work and IF the ing. timing was layed back . Now here i do not know what the timing curve is on this tractor and could be anywhere between 26 degrees to 40 degrees , don't have any idea on what pistons are being used or what head . Way to many variables here . But hay Keystone Turbo got there money . A good friend of mine was showing me that set up one time and asked me what i thought . Flat up and told him that that was not going to work . and if it did it would not last vary long . Now don't get me wrong here that i do not like Horse power , For the last fifty years i have built engines with more horse power , Never met a farmer that told me that his tractor had to much horse power or a drag racer that said oh yea i got to much . The secret is building and engine that will live at the max . Ya need a bottom end that will take it then ya need a head that will stay put , pistons that will not break or melt and rods that do not bend and snap off and make nice inspection hole in the side of the block. Then ya need to know just how high you can twist them . Build it wright the first time and it will live if not get the push broom out and the floor dry .

You have probably blown the head gasket between 2 cylinders. I do not know the particulars of the turbo installation, please post pictures.

sounds like you may have to get a copper head gaskets or O ring it.

Andrew

I don"t have a keystone turbo kit on my c-175 block but I did mount my own turbo. Just a plate on the pipe coming out of the manifold boosted air goes thru the carb. fuel pump was needed to supply fuel. I have not touched anything else, she was timed before the turbo was mounted and has not been changed since. the carb is untouched striaght out of the box and mounted on. She is literally a bone stock engine with a turbo literally bolted on and she boosts well over 10 psi regularly. I haven"t had so much as a "burp" out of the motor in the year since the turbo has been mounted. She takes the boost and loves every minute of it.

What kind of boost is your fathers M pushing? Ill try to help you out the best I can. I was in contact with Keystone for a while before I did my turbo and they have said that the low compression of these farmall motors is perfect for turbo charging.

Unfortunately, I do not have any other info as it is not my project. I was curious if others had good results. The thing that is strange to me is the last time it was done by a very reputable shop that does puller M"s, antiques and big time tractor pulling engines and everything else. I was really surprised to hear it had issues again so soon.

I can see if I can find out more info.

Dan

(quoted from post at 18:46:07 10/03/12) I have a question in regards to what I believe is a Keystone kit on my Grandfathers Super M. He had the kit installed as a novelty for running up and down the road. He doesn't pull it or work it from what I understand. He has blown the motor 2 times and after the 2nd time, he had the best engine guy in the area rebuild it to the tune of 5K. After the rebuild he gave the tractor away. I asked him how it was doing with its new owner and he told me the engine builder broke it in on the dyno and said all was well. After the break in it started blowing white smoke and hitting on only 2 cylinders on a road trip. My Grandfather doesn't have a computer and asked me to call the manufacturer and ask their thoughts. I haven't called them as I know very little about the whole tractor. I thought maybe some of you might know what could be causing this. I am in no way bashing Keystone as I have never heard anything bad about their product or talked to them.

Thanks,
Dan

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mm, something sounds funny here. I would ask a few questions here. White smoke and two cylinders generally means you've blown a head gasket. Common reasons why you have blown a head gasket are improperly torqued head bolts, stretched head bolts, too thin of a head deck, too thin of a block deck, warped deck, warped head, or just a plain poor head gasket.

Here are my thoughts. Is the wastegate tuned to a reasonable boost level or working at all? Is there a boost gauge or EGT gauge on this thing? Too much boost/and a malfunctioning wastegate will overboost the motor and cause bad things to happen. I'm not a fan of a non intercooled motor, and it appears that kit has no intercooler which can compound an already dicey situation if the tune isn't right. With no intercooler thats alot of heat to put back into a motor that was never designed for boost. Incorrect ignition timing might be causing the issue. Generally if the timing is too far advanced you would burn an electrode off a plug, burn a hole in a piston, or take the head gasket out. Roll the dice on how lucky you feel with that one. Also too lean of a fuel mixture do the same thing.

Something in the tune on the engine is way way off if it's blowing up like that. Being it is doing it from what I understand under a relatively light load it almost makes me think you have a wastegate issue where it's building too much boost compared to the fuel the engine is taking in. It's hard to tell without looking at it myself, but that's where I would start looking.

Keep in mind a turbocharged gas engine sucking through a carb does not function like a diesel. When engine is under a light to medium load like running up and down the road like the op said, there is no boost because the butterfly in the carb is staying near closed to keep rpm's steady. A diesel controls rpms by restricting fuel when a gas like this is restricting air and gas mixture, hence, no boost until the govenor opens the carb under a heavy load. your problems are not boost related if you are only running on the road. I need to know what type of engine failures you had before to diagnose. As of now it sounds like you are getting coolant into cylinders.

I have a keystone turbo set up on my '50 M..it works great. i run 10-11 lbs boost.
sounds like you have a warped/cracked deck or head, or starting with too much compression ratio. i'm running a distilate head and a homebrew electronic ignition.