I was here before asking opinions about the awful wiring on my F-I-L's gas 450. At the great advice of folks here, I bought a new wiring harness from Brillman's, which he modified for my new 1-wire alternator. Beautiful harness, color-coded and terminals-numbered. Fool-proof, until it got to me.

I cannot now remember if I was crystal-clear that it was converted to a 12-volt negative-ground, nor can I promise that I didn't mis-place one of his wires, despite my painstaking efforts to get it right.

Everything being in place, I put in the battery and hooked it up, for the purpose of testing the lights, as the lightswitch posts were not identified, and I tried to place the light-switch wires as in the original wiring diagram.

And next, here is where my problem lays...

As soon as I turn on the 'on-off' switch (which replaced the original key-switch), the engine starts to turn-over, and I of course don't want that to happen until I hit the push-button starting-switch.

I'm not smart enough to figure this out, but I'm smart enough, thanks to Mr. Brillman's color-coding, to make a wiring diagram of exactly how it is currently wired. Can any of you gentleman tell me where my problem lays, and how to make it right?

Maybe I found my problem...

Following the unimpeded electrons from he positive side of the battery, to the solenoid, to the negative side of the ammeter through to the positive, and to the on-off switch, I think I can see that if I turn on that switch, the power will go to the push-button, and from there, make a short-cut to the solenoid magnet, turning on the starter without neding to push the button.



Does this make any sense, before I screw things up worse??

The wire from the left side of the push button, coming from the ign switch should be hooked to the other side of the start push button. There cannot be a second wire going to the coil unless it comes from a second small terminal on the relay labeled "I" . If only one terminal, the wire to the coil should not be used. The coil is wired backwards, Negative ground should have the Negative post to distributor. Jim.

You found it, but there is more to it. Jim

Mr. Nicholson, I appreciate your help. I'll swap the coil terminals, and the wire from the ignition switch to the push-button.

Maybe I waylaid you- I have a ballast resistor also, and Mr. Brillman had two wires going to the coil, one directly from the solenoid magnet, and the other from the push-button-to-the-ballast-resistor-to-the-coil. I understood the solenoid-wire-to-the-coil to sidestep the ballast-reistor to provide extra power for starting. Does that make a difference in having two wires to the coil?

I amended my wiring diagram to reflect your changes and the ballast resistor. Is this now correct?



If not, once more, could you explain precisely which wire to the coil isn't needed, and could you explain where is the relay of which you spoke?

Thanks!

Gotta laugh at myself. I put up an amended wiring-diagram (it wound-up between my other two "renditions" above) to reflect the mis-placed wire on the push-button, and the changes to the coil, and when I made the changes, I left the second wire to the coil in place, and the same thing happened, it tried to start without the push-button. I took a more critical look at the amended diagram, and saw that the wire between the coil and the solenoid was ALSO short-circuiting the push-button! Took that wire away, and now everything works like it should.

Appreciate your help!

(quoted from post at 17:15:36 09/30/12) Gotta laugh at myself. I put up an amended wiring-diagram (it wound-up between my other two "renditions" above) to reflect the mis-placed wire on the push-button, and the changes to the coil, and when I made the changes, I left the second wire to the coil in place, and the same thing happened, it tried to start without the push-button. I took a more critical look at the amended diagram, and saw that the wire between the coil and the solenoid was ALSO short-circuiting the push-button! Took that wire away, and now everything works like it should.

Appreciate your help!

Click to expand...

ood job! You'll be a 'sparkie' yet!

LOL!
I live, and I learn. Always learning!

To allow the bypass to work with a one small terminal Relay. put a diode in the wire that you removed from the little terminal to the coil side of the ballast resistor. The diode will allow the current to flow to the coil, but not the other way. Jim

Is this the solenboid with two posts one to activate the starter and one to bypass the resistor to the coil? As it is drawn...

1. Your starter runs whenever your switch is on.
2. You may not have fire because you are energizing the negative side of your coil.

Move the green wire to the other side of the pushbutton and try that. If the light blue and dark blue wires are on the same terminal it will run the starter all the time.