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806 RD pump

B

Bob3 Martin

New User
Working some of the leaks out of this pump. This forum has been such big help in the process.

I"m down to one final leak around a knob affair that sits under the pump itself to the rear of the drain plug on the fuel bowl about five inches. You can turn it about a quarter turn and it has a boot on it.

The boot is all but gone and there is an "0" ring on the stem up in the pump. I need to remove that knob thing with the stem to get at the "0" ring to replace it. I don"t see any nut to remove. Is there a trick to pulling it out to replace that "0".

Appreciate the help, as always.

Bob
 
Here i can not help ya . When it comes to pump work for the most part i leave that up to Harry . I will replace throttle shaft seals and injection line seals But after that Off it comes and off to New Castle . Don't have a stand don't have the tools , so let the man that does and knows the R D pumps inside and out do his thing.
 
can't help ya on replacing the o ring other than look at the pic in the parts book. the knob is for bleeding air out of the system. since the charge pump is between the two fuel filters flow-wise, you got to let it bypass with gravity to get the air out of the final filter. can't remember which way is which, but it's in the owners manual.
 
Thanks for the responses. You guys are the best.

I looked at the diagram and can see the "0" ring and all that, but I can't figure out how to get to it.

I got the throttle shaft leak taken care of. I'm in over my head with a lot of this fuel injection pump stuff and didn't want to mess it up. The old girl runs fine, it's just the leaks had to be stopped.

A rebuilt was over a thousand dollars and the tractor is probably worth five thousand.

Really appreciate the help.
 
To get that plunger out you have to take the primary pump off and there is a retaining pin you pull out from the inside.
 
Thanks a lot Pete. I need to get that leak stopped, but I may have to improvise. I don't trust my talents to taking that thing apart.

I may just have to put a bucket under it- ha.

Appreciate the help, Bob
 
Just thought I"d add this note in case someone comes up with one of these old dinosaurs with a similar problem.

The bleed knob/stem I had the leak at is in good shape now.

This is what I did with Pete"s expertise.

At the rear of the injection pump is the primary pump Pete said I need to get into to access a pin to remove the bleed stem to replace the leaking "0" ring. The little 1/4 serrated head bolts hold the end cap on and the two allen bolts hold everything to the injection pump.

The little release pin Pete mentioned is down at the bottom of the casting and goes through to a ridge on the stem with a flat on it. If you just loosen all the end bolts about 3/8 inch and pull the end cap back from the main body with the bolts left in place you can turn the bleed stem back and forth and force the retainer pin away from the stem, then pull the stem out and replace the "0" ring. Then just tighten it all back down and you"re ready to go.

The best way to fix it is like Tractor Vet said - take it to a pump guy that knows what he"s doing.

Thanks again Pete. She"s all dry for now.

Appreciate the help. Bob
 
Once Harry told me that one thing with the RD pump is that one should replace the FT bearing every once in a while to save the head and rotor . Myself i like the RD pumps and wish my 806 still had one on it as it was swamped out long before i got it. so was the one on my one friends 806 , on that one i just did the pump last year and mine is next just hoping that it will get thru silage choppen .
 
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