Hot Coil?? is it bad.

Our Phone System is Down!

Please use the Contact us Form

We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!

NolanJae

Member
I pulled the valve cover and adjusted the valves on on my 460, pulled the plugs, checked the points. My 460 has been acting up- rich under power/idle ect. Last couple times ive tried to start her it acts likes its flooded but will start. After the valves and points I left the key on and took off the dist cap and wires and did my compression check 142-147 in all cylinders. While doing the test I left the key on between cylinders. got done with the last cylinder and could smell hot electrical componets. Checked and found that the coil was smelling and hot- so was the resistor next to it. When I removed the cap and wires for the compression test I pulled the wire from the coil and put the cap/wires on the bench. Why did it get hot and is that why I have a miss/ and need to lean the carb? I thought I had crud in the carb or another issue.
 
Anytime the key is left on and the points are closed but shes NOT running, the coil (and any ballast resistor) will get fairly warm. Also if theres resistive carbon (often the case) on the points that will cause them to get hot also.

The cap and rotor n plug wires etc even if off the tractor has nuttin to do with the fact that the coils LV primary circuit (points, ballast, coil primary) continues to draw current if the ign switch is on.

A short term heating of the coil likely didnt hurt anything but if the ign is left on a longgggggggg time while shes not running now that could harm the coil and points

John T
 
The coil and resistor got hot because the points were closed the entire time and the current kept going through them. The points would open and close during normal operation so the coil cools down when current is not flowing.

You should probably at least replace or file the points.
 
Thanks for the info. I dont know much about electrical systems. I'm still leaning towards a carb issue but would a coil cause a rich running motor due to lack or low spark? I've gone through the carb several times- soak-blow-clean-adjust float each time and now im haveing to lean the main scew to one turn to keep from fouling plugs and blowing smoke. The motor was completely overhauled last winter.
 
If an engine is running too rich that can carbon blacken n foul the plugs and she keeps running worse over time as a result. Sure, a weak spark can cause incomplete combustion and you may start seeing some black (unburned fuel) smoke exiting the stack. Id start with a fresh set of plugs and a good set of points n condensor and dont run the carb any richer then necessary, you dont wanna see a lot of black smoke (over rich) out the stack.

As far as spark quality it should be a bright highly visible blue versus a thin wimpy yellow lookin spark.

Are you sure the intake system, pipe and air cleaner etc etc are all clean open and free and the choke butterfly is fully opening?? And then adjust the carb so its not over rich and with good plugs n wires n cap n rotor and points maybe it will be okay. Im NOT an IHC carb specialist only know over rich running will eventually carbon foul the plugs and make things worse.

John T
 
I tried all those things- 3rd set of plugs- new points/ condensor times. Air leak would make it those cylinders run lean- dont know what else to do. Valves are timed and compression is great- good oil pressure

leaves 2 things spark and fuel. Been through he carb atleast 4 times now. No change. I can get it to run lean enough as long as I adjust the main fuel mixture to the load I'm working at but put her to idle or anything other than that load and its too rich. or If I adjust to putt mode its too lean at higher speeds.

gonna try a coil and check all ignition wires and give it a shot.

Only thing im thinkin is the carb jets were drilled and wrong needles were reinstalled before I got it. I dont know how to check jets
 
Trouble shoot first then parts not the other way around.
Check you spark. Make sure it is in fact a blue/white in color and will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. If it will not do that then try cleaning the points and check again. If it still is not good jump across the ballast resister and check. Good then you coil is most likely weak. Also look at the bottom of your coil. If it is pushed out good chance you got it to hot if still flat not likely to be bad
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top