H tranny seal replacement

Senator · Aug 31, 2012

I want to replace both the driveshaft and countershaft seals on my '43 H. Seems I read awhile back that it's possible to do both without removing the lift-all. Difficult due to very limited room, but possible. I also seem to remember a link with pictures of someone doing exactly this.

What do ya think? Anyone done it this way and remember the link to the pictures? I've tried searching the forum, but can't find it.

Or am I nuts for even thinking about doing it this way???

Stemmy · Aug 31, 2012

[b:589386ec5c]there should be plenty of room to do it like that, but while you're replacing those seals you might as well just drop the lift-all and replace the seal in it too. I recently did the ones on my H, they were shot.[/b:589386ec5c]

Zachary Hoyt · Aug 31, 2012

You would have to remove the belly pump drive shaft to change the countershaft seal and I think you would have to remove the pump in order to have room to remove the transmission input shaft to get at the seal up there. It is not hard to remove the pump, you just need a floor jack or two friends (a floor jack is usually easier).
Zach

Ol' Gimpy · Aug 31, 2012

Might as well just go ahead and drop that Lift-All unit,a like the guys said,replace the Lift-All shaft seal while you"re at it.You may want to check closely the input flange and bottom bearing retainer/Lift-All drive shaft for a worn groove,and have a "Speedi-Sleeve" at the ready for each.With the new seals so small and made thin,you may want to even "Double" the seals up.Be careful handling that Lift-All unit!!

Senator · Aug 31, 2012

OK...

How does one get the input coupling off the liftall to replace the seal? Won't it just turn with the pump?

Zachary Hoyt · Aug 31, 2012

You can stick a brass rod into the gears of the pump, I am told. Never tried it myself.
Zach

sflem849 · Aug 31, 2012

(quoted from post at 18:12:40 08/31/12) You can stick a brass rod into the gears of the pump, I am told. Never tried it myself.
Zach

I used a screwdriver with a little black tape on it. Not really perfect, but it worked. I don't know what store I go to for brass bars. Is it next to the Prussian Blue? :lol:

FBH44 · Sep 1, 2012

I did it with the lift-all in place (don"t know why)and there"s room for a few fingers to get in there, but not much else. Took me several weeks, believe it or not, things were frozen in place.
I agree, remove the Lift-All, you"ll really have room to work.

FBH44 · Sep 1, 2012

Stewmmy's picture reminds me, those 4 bolts holding that double-coupling thing are special tapered bolts, and are real expensive at the Case-IH place. Be careful with them.

rustyfarmall · Sep 1, 2012

(quoted from post at 17:23:45 08/31/12) OK...

How does one get the input coupling off the liftall to replace the seal? Won't it just turn with the pump?

Build an adapter that allows the use of an impact wrench. The same adapter can be used to remove the countershaft nut.

Senator · Sep 1, 2012

Are both couplings (countershaft and liftall) right hand thread?

rustyfarmall · Sep 1, 2012

(quoted from post at 08:58:18 09/01/12) Are both couplings (countershaft and liftall) right hand thread?

YES!!

pete 23 · Sep 2, 2012

Myself, I would not even consider replacing the seal with out pulling the whole input housing,(those six bolts). I have seen too many screwed up jobs putting that coupler back on. Some do come off easy, some not. Then the half moon key works it way out when you can't tell what is happening and ruins the coupling, and still leaks anyway. You will be glad you pulled the input shaft as you will surely find something else wrong. Loose or worn ball input shaft bearings, Pilot bearing shot, bolt holding pilot bearing is loose. Something else for sure. You need to remove belt pulley attachment or the plate to put it back together to support shaft into pilot bearing.

Stemmy · Sep 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 06:04:51 09/01/12) Stewmmy's picture reminds me, those 4 bolts holding that double-coupling thing are special tapered bolts, and are real expensive at the Case-IH place. Be careful with them.

Yes be very careful with those. When I took mine out I cleaned them up and put a small coat of grease on the bolts and the rubber grommets. Prevents them some seizing in the coupler and keeps the grommets from drying out.

sflem849 · Sep 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 13:05:22 09/02/12)

(quoted from post at 06:04:51 09/01/12) Stewmmy's picture reminds me, those 4 bolts holding that double-coupling thing are special tapered bolts, and are real expensive at the Case-IH place. Be careful with them.

Click to expand...

Yes be very careful with those. When I took mine out I cleaned them up and put a small coat of grease on the bolts and the rubber grommets. Prevents them some seizing in the coupler and keeps the grommets from drying out.

Antisieze would be better suited and I would leave the rubbers dry.

Stemmy · Sep 2, 2012

Yes, either one will work lol, I didn't have antiseize handy.

H tranny seal replacement

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