H running problem. help please.

crl800 · Aug 31, 2012

I have a friends h here. It does not run good. New pistons
and sleeves,complete valve job this spring. 100 Psi
compression even. I put on reman carb,reman mag,new
plugs,steel core wires. Running out of ideas. Manifolds ever
burn out internally? Have played with timing and carb
adjustments a lot. Thanks in advance for any help.

IAtractorKid · Aug 31, 2012

Im no expert here but have the valves been re-adjusted? Manifold or gasket could cause problems too. Im sure someone else will chime in...I think you can spray WD40 on the manifold and around the gaskets and if the engine smooths out, you know you have a leak and are sucking air.

farmallboy15 · Aug 31, 2012

I would have someone who is very experienced check your timing and carb adjustment. That was all that my H needed. I would check valve adjustments one more time as well...

rustyfarmall · Aug 31, 2012

(quoted from post at 05:18:47 08/31/12) I have a friends h here. It does not run good. New pistons
and sleeves,complete valve job this spring. 100 Psi
compression even. I put on reman carb,reman mag,new
plugs,steel core wires. Running out of ideas. Manifolds ever
burn out internally? Have played with timing and carb
adjustments a lot. Thanks in advance for any help.

So what are the symptoms?

That remanufactured SHOULD have already been adjusted to factory initial settings, and you should not have any need to tinker with it.

9 times out of 10, an H that runs poorly is suffering from insufficient spark advance.

FBH44 · Aug 31, 2012

Just to start off with, these are some settings.
1. Get engine warmed up, if you can.
2. Top carb screw, the outward-facing idle speed screw @ 450 rpm.
3. Middle screw, the forward-facing screw, the idle mixture screw; start @ 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. (Turns clockwise for rich.)
4. Main fuel adjusting screw, the bottom angled-backwards screw; start @ 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. (Turns clockwise for lean.)
5. Points set @ 0.020", or a match-book-cover"s thickness slid back and forth.
6. Timing, dunno.
7. My old notes say valves @ 0.017" warm, 0.020" cold.
You ought to get a manual, there"s a lot on tuning, these are just what I use as the start positions

sgtbull · Aug 31, 2012

Am I mistaken, or shouldn't a good engine have around 125 lbs? Has it been run enough since the overhaul to seat the rings? It should still run okay at 100 lbs, so that isn't the problem, but it just seemed low for a rebuilt motor.

WVFarmall · Sep 1, 2012

What kind of gas are you running? Does it have any ethanol in it? I had an M this summer that was giving me trouble wasn't running right. I talked to a fellow who has worked on farmalls for years and he told me to get 93 octane without ethanol. Tractor has run fine since changeing gas. Just an idea.

rustyfarmall · Sep 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 17:32:03 09/01/12) What kind of gas are you running? Does it have any ethanol in it? I had an M this summer that was giving me trouble wasn't running right. I talked to a fellow who has worked on farmalls for years and he told me to get 93 octane without ethanol. Tractor has run fine since changeing gas. Just an idea.

Here we go again with the ethanol. I own a 1940 Farmall M, and a 1940 Farmall H. Both of those tractors run excellent on E-85.

H running problem. help please.

crl800

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IAtractorKid

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farmallboy15

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rustyfarmall

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FBH44

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sgtbull

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WVFarmall

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rustyfarmall

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