(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

450 fan- can it truly be...

P

P and R Pete

Member
...that I have to pull the RADIATOR to get off the fan to replace a belt hanging by a thread, during an alternator swap?

A used I&T shop manual says it is so.

*sigh*)

This dang tractor of my FIL"s going to drive me back to drinking.
 
You may want to replace both belts a the same time. You will need to completely loosen the adjustment sheave for the fan belt. The generator belt can then be slipped under the fan belt and you should be able to move it over one fan blade at a time.
 
Leave the radiator alone. Just loosen the pulley sheave fully and slip the belt over 1 fan blade at a time. Ditto for the generator (alternator) belt.
 
Don"t know if I"m talking the same thing, but I"ve heard this split pulley thing is cast iron, and if you whale away at it, to free it up, you might break it. Seems like some guys say to use lots of PB Blaster and heat to free it up.
 
Don"t know if I"m talking the same thing, but I"ve heard this split pulley thing is cast iron, and if you whale away at it, to free it up, you might break it. Seems like some guys say to use lots of PB Blaster and heat to free it up.
 
Don"t know if I"m talking the same thing, but I"ve heard this split pulley thing is cast iron, and if you whale away at it, to free it up, you might break it. Seems like some guys say to use lots of PB Blaster and heat to free it up.
 
You HAVE to free it up, otherwise you'll never get the belt off without removing the whole water pump.

Don't "whale" on it though. Just loosen/remove the set screw, and use a hammer and screwdriver and TAP to drive it around. Usually the threads are just crudded up with caked-on grease and dirt, not rusted. Wire brush and PB blaster the threads will help things move along.
 
You just mite have to do just that. I have a SWD9 & a 600 diesel and to change the generator belt you have to pull the radiator becouse the belt is to short to go over the fan blades one at a time. So to change the belt you have remove the fan, to remove the fan you have to remove the radiator. Mite be the same thing on a 450 if it's a diesel. Good luck.
 
One way that you can be pretty sure to get the pulley halves to completely separate (and thus get the belt off), is to loosen one of the fan bolts, (there are four), and wrap some baling wire around it, then tighten it back up. The other end of the baling wire, you attach to one of the frame rails or other stationary object. Next, with the set screw loosened, use a hammer and hard piece of wood, like an old hammer or ax handle, to strike the raised lugs on the sheeve. By hitting the hard wood, and not hitting the sheeve directly, you provide a cushion that protects the sheeve from breaking. It worked for me.
 
No need to loosen that miserable fan pulley to replace a generator / alternator belt on one of those tractors.
I have used this link belt for years, they wear better than a conventional belt.
It's so easy to replace a belt, as they split with nothing more than a needle nose pliars.
Easy to find the right length for an alternator conversion, just add or remove links until it is right.
These belts are avalible in 10 ft rolls at most bearings and drives shops.
Link belt
 
Loosening the nut on the pulley is easy if you have the right tools. An air chisel with the right bit makes all the difference.
 
How come nobody is reading what the man is asking. He is not asking how get his fan belt off. He is asking about replacing his generator belt, if it is to short like the belt on a SWD9 or a 600 diesel to go over the fan one blade at a time, then yes you have pull the radiator to get fan off so you can change the belt.
 
(quoted from post at 20:52:12 08/29/12) Leave the radiator alone. Just loosen the pulley sheave fully and slip the belt over 1 fan blade at a time. Ditto for the generator (alternator) belt.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if this is the same situation that the OP is asking about, but I just did this very thing on a 300 u. Getting that set screw out was the worst part. wd 40, torch, hammer,screwdriver, and patience. It ended up not being as bad as it first looked, but it wasn't the best time I ever had in my life.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

glennster
to 20 overheating
Replies
6
Views
325
glennster
glennster
J
1948 8N rebuild progress
6 7 8
Replies
152
Views
6K
JJay48
J
N
JD-400-D Loader/Backhoe fan belt
Replies
17
Views
1K
Tx Jim
Tx Jim
L
Battery Cable sizing... placing a bet
Replies
17
Views
1K
HFJ
H
Y
1968 IH 544 industrial version with C-200 gas engine
Replies
10
Views
684
wore out
wore out
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top