B Engine Block Casting Number

I"m looking through the catalogs and online for new sleeve/piston set for a B. There are different outside diameter sleeves depending on your block. What I"ve ran up against is that the only casting number I can find is 6342DH, which is not in the options listed in the catalogs or online. Is there another number somewhere on the block that I"m missing, or is this numbers for a replacement block? I"d just pull a sleeve and measure it, but the owner wants to get prices before we commit to this route. It"s kind of close down in the block to get any type of outside measuring device on the bottom of the sleeves while they are still in the block.

Your 6342 B block accepts thinner sleeves that increase the displacement from 113 Cu in to 123. I don't think 113 sleeves are available any more. A block with the casting number 354898 will accept sleeves that give it about 133 cu in, but not in yours.

What is the bore and what is the code date on the block. Is the serial# on the block the same as on the seat bracket. You need to know these things before getting a kit. You can measure the bottom of the sleeve. Tell him you mite need to pull a sleeve before going any farther. You can get new sleeves and pistons for around 53 a hole are you going to do the crank getting it ground with new bearings and a valve job. There is not that much difference in price of the sleeves and pistons but the rest of the job can run into big money. Knowing the price of the sleeves and pistons istn that great but the price of the rest of the engine is where the big money is. You can spend 300 on the head alone 300 or so in grinding the crank. Just how far are you going to go in rebuilding the engine. You can get new rings alone for 100 or so.

I didn't write down the date code, but the serial number of the engine block and the tag on the seat support is the same. 188342. Took both crank and head to machine shop. The crank was within the tolerances and not egged out. They just polished it. Valves, guides and springs were all useable. Just grind valves and seats and deck the surface. Overall, didn't have to spend too much on these. Truth be told, if they would have let me done this job in the first place instead of trying to do it themselves, finding out that they were in over their head and then give me a call to bail them out, we probably wouldn't have to had to replace the liners. But they improperly honed them and now they are uneven and way out of tolerance.

I have done some more research since my last post and it appears that the 113 blocks had the smaller bore in the block compared to the 123. In other words, the outside of the liner is smaller on the 113 block compared to the 123. I may still have to pull a liner to measure just to be sure. The most popular liners available are 3 1/8" overbore. I only found one place that had the standard 3" liners and they were twice as much as the 3 1/8".