Charge Then No Charge

Binderman

Member
I have my 1939 M and I replaced my old alternator and installed the kit from Martin"s Equipment, new mounting hardware and 37 amp. Delco alt. Fits very nice, easy installation,worked great,now it seems like it charges for a few seconds on the guage, and then it is full discharge from then on. All contacts are clean, I checked my connections they seem ok. Thank you for any help on this.....

Binderman
 
By full discharge, what do you mean? Is the amp gauge needle way over to the left, discharge side? That would indicate a load greater than output of alternator or no output with a load such as lights being on. If you mean, needle is standing straight up and down, that is what it is supposed to do after startup current has been replaced in battery. You need to check output with a volt meter to see what you have .
 
By full discharge, what do you mean? Is the amp gauge needle way over to the left, discharge side? That would indicate a load greater than output of alternator or no output with a load such as lights being on. If you mean, needle is standing straight up and down, that is what it is supposed to do after startup current has been replaced in battery. You need to check output with a volt meter to see what you have .
 
There is no reason for a 12 volt system. Keep it original! As long as you have good wiring, heavy cables, a good gen, cutout and charging and light switch you will be happy. Also have your valves, timing and carb adjusted properly. The 12 volt conversion is more of a half a$$ fix for the real problem. I have the original system on my "39 H and have never had any problems.
 
Did you go from + ground to -? If you did you have to switch the wires on the amp gauge. What you are seeing as full discharge is what it is charging. What does a voltmeter show on the battery?
 
Well I have to agree that a 1939 M is better with 6 volt on it. However, whether you run a 6, 12 or 24 volt system, the ammeter, if wired correctly, should show a charge and then reduce almost to zero after a few minutes or even under a minute with a powerful alternator.
I have gone to the trouble of finding and fitting genuine Lucas 6 volt equipment to my 1939 Farmall M, because that is what was fitted on it originally. It is very pleasing to fit really old equipment like that and find that it all works perfectly. It also has the advantage that it runs a voltage regulator and not just a cut out, which means I don't have to remember to move the switch to reduce generator output.
SadFarmall
 
I try to answer a man's questions and not tell him what he should put on his own machine. Any one who has been around a lot of those old six volt systems realize that 12 volt systems are far superior. IH would not have changed if there was not a demand for it. They never changed anything that they could sell the way it was.
 
Don't cry to hard this M has been 12 volt since 1985 and worked perfect, replaced alt. and had problem, all fixed now..Binderman
 
Other than, if you have to buy all the parts already anyhow, you may as well upgrade it and be able to run more than a light with the electrical system, and be able to use it to jumpstart something.
 
yes the pure stock original guys have a problem with 12 volts, but the fact of the matter is 12 volt is by far the best. I like my tractors to start when I bump the switch. Everything is 12 volt today, Why? Because its a better system!!
 
I like to leave mine 12v with the generator. That way you can charge and jump them with anything else, but they still appear stock on the outside.

Did you just buy a new alternator or did they test the old one? I would guess the regulator was starting to give up on yours. Probably why it would charge and then stop.

On the side, my truck alternator just died. It would charge sometimes and then not charge. It actually ended up that one of the brushes had worn halfway through the shaft that it runs on. It was cheaper to buy a new alternator than rebuild mine.
 

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