I have a M and the pipe is gone on the top where the muffler go on but the pipe is tite in the manifold. Do any of you guys have a way to get the pipe out of the manifold with out breaking anything. I also have a tap to clean out the threads before I put a new pipe in.

Bob

(quoted from post at 13:20:09 08/22/12) I have a M and the pipe is gone on the top where the muffler go on but the pipe is tite in the manifold. Do any of you guys have a way to get the pipe out of the manifold with out breaking anything. I also have a tap to clean out the threads before I put a new pipe in.

Bob

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You can place a blunt object against the pipe, right next to where it screws into the manifold, strike that object with a hammer, and just sort of "cave it in". That is how I have done a couple of them, and it works good IF the pipe is thin enough.

OR, you can hacksaw the pipe off flush with the manifold, and then using only the hacksaw blade, cut that pipe in 2 or three places down inside the manifold and then dig it out.

I would use a hacksaw and cut a chunk out of the pipe. I would then try to cave the rest of the pipe into the middle.

The muffler should slide down over the top of the pipe. If the pipe is too short, you could go to a muffler shop and get a piece of exhaust pipe to extend it back up to a workable height. They could expand one end so that the muffler will fit in it.
Just a thought
SDE

The muffler should slide down over the top of the pipe. If the pipe is too short, you could go to a muffler shop and get a piece of exhaust pipe to extend it back up to a workable height. They could expand one end so that the muffler will fit in it.
Just a thought
SDE

I have done the hack saw blade trick a couple of times and it worked for me.

My H had a similar problem - had enough pipe sticking up to get a pipe wrench with a 3 ft pipe on it - came out without problem.

No, bad advice. Muffler pipe can't be threaded into the manifold.
Remove manifold from motor.Cut the old pipe off about 3/4 inch above the manifold. Use your asawsall. Now make a cut parrallel to the pipe sides doan into the manifold. Cut just barely into the threads. One cut.
Use punch and collapse the pipe and pull it out. Maximum 15 minute job.
2 inch npt to retap. Blow out all grit and metal. Reinstall new 2 inch pipe about 12 inchesl long.

Use the saws all method. It is a maximum of a 10 minute job. Only problem we found, when I worked in the IH dealer service, the tap would not cut the hard cast iron threads. We tried several taps and the cast iron would just tear the thread cutters off the tap, even on brand new taps. We generally installed the new pipe in as far as we could get it after getting the old pipe out. We also used a lot of anti-seize when we installed the pipe.

(quoted from post at 20:00:26 08/22/12) Use the saws all method. It is a maximum of a 10 minute job. Only problem we found, when I worked in the IH dealer service, the tap would not cut the hard cast iron threads. We tried several taps and the cast iron would just tear the thread cutters off the tap, even on brand new taps. We generally installed the new pipe in as far as we could get it after getting the old pipe out. We also used a lot of anti-seize when we installed the pipe.

Click to expand...

I have heard to cut a couple slits in a pipe and turn it into a tap. BUT if a tap is too soft to work I'm sure a pipe wouldn't work at all.

You may have to use a High Speed Steel Tap and sufficient thread cutting lubricant to clear these threads. You should also take care to remove fragments of metal from the thread in the manifold, which have remained from the exhaust pipe. Most of these remains can be dug out with a small flat screwdriver or a suitable spike.
If pieces of metal are jammed in the threads, the tap is likely to squeeze them tighter and tighter into the thread with the possibility of:
a). damaging or destroying the thread
b). damaging the tap
You should have no trouble cutting thread in cast iron, but remember that 2" is a large diameter, so you are trying to cut or chase out a fairly large amount of thread each revolution of the tap, so patience, cleanliness and thread cutting lubricant (diesel works well) are required. If you see pieces of metal sitting on the flutes of the tap and threatening to choke the cutting teeth, unscrew the tap and wash these pieces off. Good luck.
SadFarmall

If the rest of the pipe has rotted away, the part that's still in the manifold is also VERY thin and it will be an easy job to remove.

All you need to do is take a small cold chisel, turn the cutting edge veritcal, and try to catch the edge of the pipe sticking out of the manifold.

Tap it with a hammer and the pipe will cave in and peel away from the threads.

Don't stuff another piece of pipe over the rotted out stub. It's not that difficult to replace the part with a new piece of 2" threaded pipe, and you won't be riding around with the muffler flopping all over the place.

But.. But... I am assuming that there is some exhaust pipe still in the manifold. If it is two short to allow enough clearance between the hood and muffler, an extention could be fabricated cheap and easy. I would not even try to stick exhaust pipe in the manifold.
SDE

(quoted from post at 14:21:39 08/24/12) But.. But... I am assuming that there is some exhaust pipe still in the manifold. If it is two short to allow enough clearance between the hood and muffler, an extention could be fabricated cheap and easy. I would not even try to stick exhaust pipe in the manifold.
SDE

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It is nearly as easy and almost as fast to just fix it right the first time and be done than it is to cobble something together and need to do it all over again in a year or two.