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Buzzard2005 08-12-2012 18:39:38 173.188.188.16 Report to Moderator	OK I have been having problems with the power steering and also found out that the outlets on the back have good flow but not enough pressure. I have been studying the hydraulic system and correct me if I am wrong, there are 3 valves under the dash. 1st valve on the left is for the 2 pt hitch on the back. This works very well and will lift a large tiller we have. 2nd valve in the center attaches to the lever on the left and operates the outlets under the dash on the left. The 3rd valve on the right is for the outlets on the rear of the tractor and under the dash on the right side and the center lever operates it. All valves stack on one another and are fed from the pump. So if I have great pressure on the 2pt shouldn"t I have enough pressure on the outlets to operate it? Is the problem probably in the valve for the outlet? The 2 pt lever will not return to center at the bottom and top of the stroke of the cylinder. Also when the pump is operating there is a slight whine and the oil is kind of milky yellow. I have the filter out and the outlet stack off the tractor right now and intend on going through each one and the relief valve under the three valves. I plan on putting in a new filter and HyTran fluid. Since I am down this far would you pull the pump and replace the suction line oring also? I hope to get the stack working correctly before I tackle the steering. I hope to get a pressure guage this week to test some pressures when I clean and check everything. Would you guys suggest anything else? [Reply]   [No Email]
LaDuke Farmall 08-14-2012 18:26:34 67.142.181.26 Report to Moderator	Re: More 560 hydraulic questions in reply to Buzzard2005, 08-12-2012 18:39:38   Your far left lever should run the left side, and the right side is ran off the center lever. the lever on the far right is the hydra-touch for the two point and that lever stay where it is left at. Get you fuild changed then check you pressure with a wet gauge. 1500psi should be about what you want. If not there is a square box on the pump. This is where you can adjust the pressure. Take off the cap and shim the spring a little at a time to add pressure. A skinny washer the same size as the spring works good. Also right behind the gear shifter are a coulpe valves you can turn that has to do with how you pressure is applied. Make sure the valve is in the right spot for what you are tring to do. Hope this helps [Reply]  [No Email]
Armand Tatro 08-12-2012 19:11:20 98.227.26.140 Report to Moderator	Re: More 560 hydraulic questions in reply to Buzzard2005, 08-12-2012 18:39:38   The way both of my 560's are plumbed (1 gas; 1 Diesel: both have fast hitches) the right-hand lever(left valve) operates the fast hitches; the left hand lever operates left side remote and center lever lever operates right side remote which has been extended to the rear because the rear remote operates the fasthitch. Now having said that I need to look at the Diesel because it came with no fast hitch. The fasthitch was an option. The gas 560 had the fast hitch from the factory so the plumbing could be a bit different. On the Diesel I hooked a pair of hoses into the right front remote to add a second rear remote. Our Farmal 400 was plumbed the same way because Dad and I added an after-market 3PT. hitch to it in the mid 60's. By the way 3 remotes are not enough when you add a hyd.loader with a grappel attatchment so I am going to add a 3 spool valve to the Diesel and a 4 spool valve to the gasser. I have already converted a '41 Farmall M and a M&M M5 to 6-valve hyd. Hope this helps. Armand [Reply]  [No Email]
pete 23 08-12-2012 18:57:18 74.32.238.2 Report to Moderator	Re: More 560 hydraulic questions in reply to Buzzard2005, 08-12-2012 18:39:38   On your outlets to the rear from that right side valve, center lever, do they have a block they go to under the valve. If so, I would bet the o-ring in that check valve is bad and allows oil to just flow back to return. You can just take the plug out of the end of that check valve to replace o-ring on piston, that is if it does have a check valve. It was an option. [Reply]  [No Email]
Buzzard2005 08-12-2012 19:34:18 173.188.188.16 Report to Moderator	Re: More 560 hydraulic questions in reply to pete 23, 08-12-2012 18:57:18   No, there is no block under the valve, just the 2 hoses that run to the rear outlets. The valve dead ends with orings into the bolster plate that holds up the dash and battery box. [Reply]  [No Email]