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air breather cleaning

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Is there a proper way of cleaning the air breather on these old Farmalls, like the H's, M's, and C's? I am sure after 50-60+ years, it would be a good idea to do. I change the oil regularly in the air breather bath but what about the element inside? Does it come apart or what do you guys do for this?

THanks
 
Can't say that it comes out perfectly clean, but I just slosh it around in 5 gal of parts cleaner--mineral spirits.
 
Just wash it as per the manual. You can use anything you like for cleaner solvent, kerosene, diesel,soap and water or anything else you mite have. Use the same oil in the cup on the bottom as in the engine fill to the level mark.
 
I have it all painted and think that method might remove and ruin paint. I was wondering about just pouring the mineral spirits through it. Do you think that would clean it very well versus dunking the whole thing?

THanks
 
Guess I should have looked in there. Duh!!! I use the same oil in the cup as the ehgine oil. Guess I never thought of using anything else.

Thanks for the repsonse
 
Maybe I will have the wife hold the breather while I am spraying it so it won't blow all around. Hahaha

No that isn't a bad idea, thanks
 
Brett, yes if it looks cruddy I'd use soapy water. Do not try to take it apart as you will never get the mesh back in without air pockets that will let dirt by. Properly serviced the filters are self cleaning. I sometimes fill the bowl with ATF as that is a high detergent light oil and will help to clean one up.
 
Do you leave the ATF in during operation? Would you have to worry about any of it getting sucked into carb?

I was told that sometimes if you fill them to the exact level of the line, it can cause a problem. Over the years they have built up a lot of crud in them and as the oil gets into it and then settles to the bottom. It fills the bowl to a higher level and then it can get into the carb.
 
(quoted from post at 08:56:49 08/11/12) Do you leave the ATF in during operation? [color=red:c4aff42feb]Would you have to worry about any of it getting sucked into carb?[/color:c4aff42feb]
I was told that sometimes if you fill them to the exact level of the line, it can cause a problem. [color=red:c4aff42feb]Over the years they have built up a lot of crud in them [/color:c4aff42feb]and as the oil gets into it and then settles to the bottom. It fills the bowl to a higher level and then it can get into the carb.
Click to expand...
It wouldn't get sucked in any more than engine oil. Run it a moderate length and change back to oil.

When you change the oil in the cup, clean out the crud. If you don't overextend your maintenance it won't build up.

If you're concerned about paint damage use soap and water and dry thoroughly.
 
Mix about 75% dawn dish soap and scalding hot water. With the oil cup in place and the outlet to the carb blanked off pour this mix in. Let stand till cool. Remove oil cup and pour boiling water thru.
Angle Iron
 
Over time a certain amount of oil may carry over as mist and be burned. It wouldn't hurt anything. You can fill them with kerosene for winter use. But the lighter the oil the more chance for evaporation so you would want to watch the level if you ran it a lot. By the way, in a lot of old instruction manuals the advice was to use waste oil drained from the crankcase to fill the air cleaner cup. It was diluted with kerosene for winter use. The purpose of the oil is to catch the dirt and carry it back to the cup where it will settle to the bottom. Works just like the snot in your nose.
 
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